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DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR 

FRANKLIN K. LANE. SECRETARY 

^.S NATIONAL PARK SERVICE 

STEPHEN T. MATHER. DIRECTOR 



GENERAL INFORMATION 

REGARDING 

THE NATIONAL MONUMENTS 



SET ASIDE UNDER THE ACT 

OF CONGRESS APPROVED 

JUNE 8, 1906 




7 



WASHINGTON 

GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFIGE 

1917 



1 






>^ 



D. of D. 

JUN 13 1917 



I 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



Page. 

Introduction '..... 5 

Distinctions between national monuments and national parks 5 

List of monuments .' ; 6 

Distribution by States 7 

Kinds of monuments 7 

Names of monuments 8 

Regulations ' 9 

Permits for archaeological exploration 9 

Appropriations 9 

NationaV^ionuments administered by the Interior Department 10 

Cai/ulin Mountain National Monument 10 

Chaco Canyon National Monument 11 

Colorado National Monument 12 

Devils Tower National Monument 13 

Dinosaur National Monument 15 

El Morro National Monument 17 

Gran Quivira National Monument 19 

Lewis and Clark Cavern National Monument 22 

Montezuma Castle National Monument 24 

Muir Woods National Monument 27 

Mukimtuweap National Monument 28 

Natiual Bridges National Monument 31 

Navajo National Monument 33 

Papago Saguaro National Monument 36 

' Petrified Forest National Monument 38 

Pinnacles National Monument 42 

Rainbow Bridge National Monument 43 

Siem" de Monts National Monument 44 

Sitka National Monument 45 

Shoshone Cavern National Monument 47 

Tumacacori National Monument 48 

National monuments administered by the Department of Agriculture 51 

Bandelier National Monument 51 

Devil Postpile National Monument 52 

Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument 53 

Grand Canyon National Monument 55 

Jewel Cave J^ational Monument , 57 

Moimt Olympus National Monument 58 

Old Kasaan National Monument 61 

Oregon Caves National Monument 63 

Ton to National Monument 64 

Walnut Canyon National Monument 66 

Wheeler National Monument 67 

National monuments administered by the War Department 69 

Big Hole Battle Field National Monument 69 

Cabrillo National Monument 70 

Map - - - - - - 40 

Appendix I. Some important dates in the history of national monuments 71 

Appendix II. An act for the preservation of American antiquities 72 

Appendix III. An act to establish a national park service, and for other purposes. 73 

Appendix IV. Literature 75 

(3) 



general infoemation regarding national 
monuments; • 



INTRODUCTION. 

The act of Congress aj)proved June 8, 1906, entitled ''An act for 
the preservation of American antiquities" ^ authorized the President 
of the United States " in his discretion, to declare by public procla- 
mation historic landmarks, historic and prehistoric structures, and 
other objects of historic or scientific interest that are situated upon 
the lands owned or controlled by the Government of the United 
States to be national monuments." Under such authority the 
President has created 36 monuments between date of this act and 
April 1, 1917. Tw^enty-one of these are administered by the Interior 
Department, 11 by the Department of Agriculture, and 2 by the 
War Department; w^hile 2, the Cinder Cone and the Lassen Peak, have 
been absorbed into the Lassen Volcanic National Park. 

The lands embraced within the national monuments were taken 
from the public domain, with exception of the Muir Woods and the 
Sieur de Monts, in which cases donation was made to the United 
States by the owners; and the Lewis and Clark Cavern, which the 
Northern Pacific Railway Co. quitclaimed in favor of the United 
States, under condition that the premises should immediately revert 
to the grantor should the monument be no longer maintained. 

DISTINCTIONS BETWEEN NATIONAL MONUMENTS AND NATIONAL 

PARKS. 

National monuments differ from national parks in several respects, 
particularly with regard to method of creation, but it would be diffi- 
cult to define one generally in terms that would exclude the other. 
It has been the endeavor of the Interior Department to administer 
those monuments under its control along the fines of national-park 
protection and development, though effort in the past has been 
restricted by lack of Federal appropriation to meet the necessary 
expense. Fortimately many of the objects in the monuments are of 
such character as to withstand any effort to damage or destroy. 

Each national park has been created by special act or provision of 
Congress, and contains scenery or natural wonders of the highest 
order as exemplified by the Glacier, Yellowstone, or Yosemite 
National Parks, while the national monuments are created (and their 
boundaries modified when necessary) by proclamations of the Presi- 
dent under authority of the act for the preservation of American 

1 The information in this compilation is current as of April 1, 1917. 

2 Text of this act is given on p. 72. 

(5) 



antiquities, and the objects preserved thereby must possess some 
special historical or scientific value. This does not exclude scenic 
areas from national monuments (as, for example, the canyons in the 
Mukuntuweap or Grand Canyon National Monuments), but the under- 
lying idea in creation of a national monument is a special object, and 
its scenic value is subordinate to its scientific value. 

LIST OF MONUMENTS. 

The 34 monuments now in existence are administered by three 
executive departments, as shown by the following tables. The 
sequence follows the order of creation and if more than one procla- 
mation has been issued the dates of all the proclamations are given. 

National monuments. 
ADMINISTERED BY THE DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR. 



Name. 


State. 


Date. 


Proclamation. 


Area. 




Wyoming 

New Mexico 


Sept. 24, 1906 
Dec. 8, 1906 
do 


34 Stat., 3236 


Acres. 
1,1.52.00 


El Morr(i 


34 Stat. ,3264 


160.00 




34 Stat. ,3265 •. 


160.00 




do 


/Dec. 8, 1906 

\July 31,1911 

Mar. 11,1907 

Jan. 9, 1908 

Jan. 16,1908 

(Apr. 16,1908 

•^Sept. 25,1909 

(Feb. 11,1916 

/May 11,1908 

\Mav 16,1911 

Sept. 15, 1908 

/Mar. 20,1909 

\Mar. 14,1912 

July 31,1909 

Sept. 21, 1909 

Nov. 1,1909 

Mar. 23,1910 

May 30,1910 

May 24,1911 

Jan. 31,1914 

Oct. 4, 1915 

July 8, 1916 

Aug. 9, 1916 


34 Stat. ,3266 


1 25, 625. CO 
1 20, 629. DO 


Petrified Forest 






New Mexico 

California 

do 


35 Stat. ,2119 




35 Stat., 21 74 


295. 00 




35 Stat. ,2177 


2,091.21 




Utah 


35 Stat., 2183 


120.00 




36 Stat. ,2502 


1 2, 740. 00 




Montana 


39Stat.,Proc. 44 

35 Stat., 2187 


1 2, 740. 00 
160.00 


Lewis and Clark Cavern - 




160.00 
10.00 




35 Stat. ,2205 




do 


36 Stat., 2491 


1 600. 00 


Navajo 




360.00 
1 15, 840. 00 




Utah 


36 Stat., 2498 




Wyoming 

New Mexico 


36 Stat. ,2501 


210.00 




36 Stat. ,2503 


1 160. 00 


Sitka 


36 Stat., 2601 


157.00 




Utah . . 


36 Stat. ,2703 


160.00 




Colorado 


37Stat.,16Sl 


13, 8&3. 06 




38 Stat., 1991 


2, 050. 43 




Utah 


39Stat.,Proc. 32 

39Stat.,Proc. 65 

39Stat.,Proc. 72 


80.00 


Sieur de Monts ^ 


Maine 


5, 000. 00 




New Mexico 


680.37 







1 Estimated area. ^ Donated to the United States. 

ADMINISTERED BY THE DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE. 



Gila Cliff Dwellings. 

Tonto 

Grand Canyon.- 

Jewel Cave 

Wheeler 

Mount Olympus 

Oregon Caves 

Devil Postpilf 

Walnut Canyon 

Bandelier 

Old Kasaan 



New Me^dco ! Nov. 

Arizona | Dec. 

do Jan. 

South Dakota. . . Feb. 

Colorado Dee. 

(Mar. 
Washington. 



Oregon 

California 

Arizona 

New Mexico. 
Alaska 



Apr, 
; (May 
July 
July 
Nov. 
Feb. 
Oct. 



16,1907 

19, 1907 

11,1908 

7, 1908 

7, 1908 

2,1909 

17,1912 

11,1915 

12, 1909 

6,1911 

30,1915 

11,1916 

25, 1916 



.35 Stat. 2162 160.00 

35Stat.216S I 1640.00 

35 Stat. 2175 i S06, 400. 00 

35 Stat. 2180 ! 11, 280. 00 

35Stat.2214 i 300.00 

35 Stat. 2247 [ 608,640.00 

37 Stat. 1737 608,480.00 

39 Stat. Proc. 6 299,370.00 

36Stat.2497 1 480.00 

37Stat.l715 800.00 

39 Stat. Proc. 41 ' 960.00 

39 Stat. Proc. 44 22,075.00 

38. 30 



1 Estimated area. 
ADMrNISTERED BY THE WAR DEPARTMENT. 


Big Hole Battle Field i . 


Montana 

California 


June 23,1910 
Oct. 14,1913 




5 


Cabrillo 


38 Stat. 1965 


1 







1 Set aside by Executive order. 



DISTRIBUTION BY STATES. 



With exception of the Sieur de Monts National Monument, in 
Maine, and the Sitka and Old Kasaan National Monuments in Alaska, 
the national monuments are located in the Rocky Momitain and 
Pacific States. 

The foUowino; list shows the monuments in each State: 



Alaska (2): 

Old Kasaan. 

Sitka. 
Arizona (8): 

Grand Canyon. 

Montezuma Castle. 

Navajo. 

Papago Saguaro. 

Petrified Forest. 

Tonto. 

Tumacacori. 

Walnut Canyon. 
California (4): 

Cabrillo. 

Devil Postpile. 

Muir Woods. 

Pinnacles. 
Colorado (2): 

Colorado. 

^\^leeler. 
Maine: Sieur de Monta. 



Montana (2): 

Big Hole Battle Field. 

Lewis and Clark Cavern. 
New Mexico (6): 

Bandolier. 

Capulin Mountain. 

Chaco Canyon. 

El Morro. 

Gila CHff Dwellings. 

Gran Quivira. 
Oregon: Oregon Caves. 
South Dakota: Jewel Cave. 
Utah (4): 

Dinosaur. 

Mukuntuweap. 

Natural Bridges. 

Rainbow Bridge. 
Washington: Mount Olympus. 
Wyoming (2): 

Devils Tower. 

Shoshone Cavern. 



KINDS OF MONUMENTS. 



The National Monuments Act contemplates the creation of three 
distinct kinds of monuments: (1) Historic landmarks or places of 
historic interest such as the Big Hole Battle Field, or the spot on 
Pomt Loma which marks the place where Cabrillo first sighted the 
coast of southern Cahfornia; (2) historic monuments, comprising 
prehistoric structures such as Montezuma Castle, Gila Cliff Dwellings, 
or historic buildings of which the Hydah Village at Old Kasaan is an 
illustration; and (3) natural monuments, comprising a variety of 
objects of scientific interest such as caves, natural bridges, Muir 
Woods, and the Grand Canyon. 

The term "natural monument" was used nearly a century ago by 
the celebrated traveler, Alexander von Humboldt, who in describing 
certain trees met with during his travels in the Tropics referred to 
them as "monuments de la nature." The term is now applied, 
abroad at least, to any natural object which might properly be 
regarded as a monument of nature's handiwork, whether it be a 
glaciated bowlder, a grove of trees, a swamp containing rare plants, a 
breeding colony of birds, or a landscape remarkable for its erosion or 
glaciation. In Prussia steps have been taken for the systematic 
preservation of natural monuments (Naturdenkmalpflege), including 
objects which have either scientific or historic interest, and in 1906 a 
special officer known as the State commissioner for the care of 
natural monuments was appointed under the minister of education 
to supervise the work of monument preservation. It is interesting 
to note that this action was taken in the same year in which the 
national monuments act was passed by Congress. The monuments 
under the central of the Prussian bureau may or may not belong to 



8 



the State. They may be the property of municipalities or of indi- 
viduals, but they are cared for by the Government. The duties of the 
commissioner consist primarily in locating and marking the monu- 
ments and in organizing and securing the cooperation of individuals 
and local authorities in their preservation.^ 

In the followmg list the 34 monuments are distributed under the 
three headings above mentioned: 



HISTORIC LANDMARKS. 



Sitka. 

Big Hole Battle Field. 

Cabrillo. 

El Morro. 

(Sieur de Monts.) 

(Dexdls Tower.) 



HISTORIC MONUMENTS. 



Bandelier. 
Chaco Canyon. 
Gila Cliff Dwellings. 
Gran Quivira. 
Montezuma Castle. 
Navajo. 
Old Kaaaan. 
Tonto. 
Tumacacori. 
Walnut Canyon. 



NATURAL MONUMENTS. 

Capulin Mountain . 
Colorado. 
Devil Postpile. 
Devils Tower. 
Dinosaur. 
Grand Canyon. 
Jewel Cave. 

Lewis and Clark Cavern. 
Mount Olympus. 
Muir Woods. 
Mukuntuweap. 
Natural Bridges. 
Oregon Caves. 
Papago Saguaro. 
Petrified Forest. 
Pinnacles. 
Rainbow Bridge. 
Shoshone Cavern. 
Sieur de Monts. 
WTieeler. 



NAMES OF THE MONUMENTS. 

The designations of the monuments, some of which at first sight 
appear fonnidable and difficult to pronounce, will be found on closer 
examination to be both interesting and appropriate. Most of the 
names refer either to the character of the monument or its geo- 
graphical location. Gila Cliff DweUmgs, Grand Canyon, Jewel Cave, 
Natural Bridges, Pmnacles, and Petrified Forest suggest at once the 
character of the reservations, while Colorado, Sitka, Mount Olympus, 
and Oregon Caves indicate their location. El Morro (the castle) if 
mentioned by its local descriptive name "Inscrij)tion Rock," is at 
once divested of its unfamiliar form, and the designation Dinosaur 
becomes plain to anyone who has seen specimens or read descriptions 
of the wonderful extinct reptiles whose remains are here found in 
such numbers. 

Finally, there are a few names of eminent explorers whose memory 
has beeii perpetuated by association with the monuments. On the 
Pacific coast, Cabrillo, discoverer of California, is commemorated by a 
monument located on the point which he first sighted when approach- 
ing the harbor of San Diego. On the Atlantic coast the njjime of 
Sieur de Monts, patron of Champlain and commander of the expedi- 
tion which discovered Mount Desert Island on the Maine coast, has 
been associated with the reservation on 'this island. A cavern m 
Montana, situated not far from the route followed by Lewis and 
Clark, bears their names, thus recalling the first exploring expedition 



1 For full account of this work and similar work in Denmark and France see Conwentz, H., care of Natural 
Monuments, Cambridge, 1909, and the publications of the Prussian bureau, 1906-1916. 



across the continent; and the Wheeler monument in Colorado, a 
striking geological feature discovered durmg tlie survey under the 
direction of the late George M. Wheeler of the Corps of Engineers, 
likewise bears his name. A monument containing some of the 
prehistoric ruins explored by Bandelier commemorates the work of 
this emment archaeologist, and John Muir, explorer and naturalist, 
could have no more fittbig monument then the grove of noble redwood 
trees now known as Muir Woods. 

REGULATIONS. 

The following regulations for the protection of the national monu- 
ments were promulgated by the department on November 19, 1910, 
to be applicable generally. Previously (September 10, 1908) these 
regulations had been prescribed for the government and protection 
of the Muir Woods National Monument. 

1. Fires are absolutely prohibited. 

2. No firearms are allowed. 

3. No fishing permitted. 

4. Flowers, ferns, or shrubs must not be picked, nor may any 
damage be done to the trees. 

5. Vehicles and horses may be left only at the places designated 
for this purpose. 

6. Lunches may be eaten only at the spots marked out for such 
use, and all refuse and litter must be placed in the receptacles pro- 
vided. 

7. Pollution of the water in any manner is prohibited; it must be 
kept clean enough for drinkmg purposes. 

8. No drinking saloon or barroom will be pennitted. 

9. Persons rendering themselves obnoxious by disorderly conduct 
or bad behavior, or who may violate any of the foregoing rules, will 
be summarily removed. 

PERMITS FOR ARCHffiOLOGICAL EXPLORATION. 

The uniform rules and regulations promulgated by the Secretaries 
of the Interior, Agriculture, and War, under date of December 28, 
1906, to carry into effect the general provisions of the act for the 
preservation of American antiquities, provide (par. 3) that — 

Permits for the excavation of ruins, the excavation of archaeological sites, and 
the gathering of objects of antiquity will be granted, by the respective secretaries 
having jurisdiction, to reputable museums, universities, colleges, or other recognized 
scientific or educational institutions, or to their duly authorized agents. 

APPROPRIATIONS. 

The first general appropriation for protection of the national monu- 
ments was contained in the sundry civil act approved July 1, 1916, 
and is in amount $3,500. The Indian appropriation act approved 
May 18, 1916, carried $3,000 for the improvement of the Navajo 
National Monmnent and the general deficiency act approved Sep- 
tember 8, 1916, provided $15,000 for road construction in the 
Mukuntuweap National Monument. 
84490°— 17 2 



10 



NATIONAL MONUMENTS ADMINISTERED BY THE INTERIOR 

DEPARTMENT. 

CAPULIN MOUNTAIN NATIONAL MONUMENT. 

This monument, located in Union County, northeastern New 
Mexico, was created August 9, 1916, and embraces 680.37 acres 
immediately surrounding Capulin Mountain, which is regarded as 
the most perfect extinct volcano in North America. It is 6 miles 
southwest of Folsom, on the Colorado Southern Railroad, and 3 miles 
north of Dedman, on the Rock Island. It is but 2 miles north of 




Capiilin Mountain National Monument, New Mexico, embracing lots 2, 3, and 4, S W. h NE. I, S. h NW. I, 
NiSW. |sec. 4,lotsland2, a. iNE. J, NE. J SE. J, see. 5, T. 29 N., R. 28; SE.^SE. i,sec. 32, SW. i 
SE. i, S. -V SW. i sec. 33, T. 30 N., R. 28, all east of the New Mexico principal meridian, containing 680.37 
acres; created August 9, 1916. 

the Ocean to Ocean Highway, and automobiles can drive to the base 
of the mountain. 

Capidin Mountain is in a region which bears evidences of much 
volcanic activity now extinct, several other craters being within a 
radius of 10 miles from Folsom. The crater cone of Capulin Moun- 
tain is composed in part of lava flow, in part of cemented breccia, 
and in part of unconsolidated cinders, which latter are fine and make 
climbing difficidt. The altitude of the mountain is 8,000 feet, its 
height above the surrounding plain being 1,500 feet. The crater is 
1,500 feet in diameter, 75 feet in depth from the lowest point of the 
rim, and 275 feet from the highest point. Numerous " blister cones" 
are found on the crusts of the more recent lava flows, consisting of 



11 



irregularly shaped blocks of lava appearing in various forms, some 
being conical, while others are globular or elliptical. In places the 
cavities of these cones are large enough for a man to make his way- 
through. 

The monument is a favorite picnic ground for parties from near-by 
towns. 

Mrs. H. "V\' . Jack, of Folsom, was appointed custodian of the monu- 
ment on August 15, 1916. 

CHACO CANYON NATIONAL MONUMENT. 

The remarkable relics of an unknown people in Chaco Canyon, 
N. Mex., embrace numerous commimal or pueblo dwellings built of 



T.2IN.,R.||W. 



T.2IN.,R. low. 




T2IN.,R.I2W. 



l!' 



T.I7N.,R.12W. 



y!:-.y- 



T.I7N.,R.I0W. T20N.,R.8W. 



g^ 



I Casa Moreno ^-^<>° ^1 



17 N., R. 10 W.; New Mexico principal meridian; created March 11, 1907 

stone. Among them is the ruin known as Pueblo Bonito, contain- 
ing, as it originally stood, 1,200 rooms, the largest prehistoric ruin 
3'et discovered in the Southwest. Numerous other ruins, containing 
from 50 to 100 or more rooms, are scattered along Chaco Canyon and 
tributaries for a distance of about 14 miles and upon adjacent terri- 
tory to the east, south, and west many miles farther. The most 
important of these ruins are as follows: Pueblo Bonito, Chettro 
Kettle, Arroyo, New Alto, Old Alto, Kin-Klet Soi, Casa Chiquita, 
Penasco Blanco, Kin-Kla-tzm, Hmigo Pavis, Unda Vidie, Weji-gi, 
Kim-me-ni-oh, Kin-yai, Casa Morena, and Pintado. 

But little excavating has been done upon this monument, and what 
has been done was done for the most part more than 10 years ago. 



12 

The ruins, which are the principal and in fact the only features of 
the monument, are in good condition. The fact that but little exca- 
vating has been done in them leaves the monument in condition for 
preservation of the niins practically in their entirety for such his- 
torical purposes as imparting ideas of the life of the peoples who 
inhabited them, their development, etc. 

The reservation can only be reached by team, mountain hack, and 
camping outfit from Farmmgton, N. Mex., on the Denver & Rio 
Grande Raih'oad, 65 miles to the north, and from Gallup or Thoreau, 
N. Mex., on the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railway, 75 miles and 
65 miles, respectively, to the south. This service may be procured 
at from $6 to $8 per day, with driver, exclusive of the cost of feed 
and subsistence. 

There are no accommodations for the public at or near the monu- 
ment, and visitors must resort to camping. 

The trip by team and camp outfit is suggested, and such a trip 
from the points mentioned will consume from two to three days on 
the road each wa}^. On such a trip the driver arranges for camping 
at certain water holes at night, and after arrival at the rums there 
is not much trouble to fuid water. Wood is scarce on the ruins, but 
coal may be gotten from a mine 4 miles distant from Pueblo Bonito, 
providing one is equipped to dig it. The country traversed is a 
high, rolling, and broken plateau, carrying with it the scenic beauty 
and attractiveness of immense waste of land. 

COLORADO NATIONAL MONUMENT. 

This area, set aside as a national monument by the President's 
proclamation of May 24, 1911, is situated near Grand Junction, 
Mesa County, Colo., from which that portion of the monument known 
as No Thoroughfare Canyon is reached by wagon road. Other parts 
of the monument ai»e reached by foot trails. The site is in a pic- 
turesque canyon, which has long been an attractive feature of that 
portion of the State. The formation is similar to that of the Garden 
of the Gods at Colorado Springs, Colo,, only much more beautiful 
and picturesque. With the exception of the Grand Canyon of the 
Colorado, it exhibits probably as highly colored, magnificent, and 
impressive examples of erosion, particularly of lofty monoliths, as 
may be found anjrwhere in the West. These monoliths are located 
in several tributary canyons. Some of them are of gigantic size, 
one being over 400 feet high, almost circular in cross section, and 100 
feet in diameter at base. There are also many caverns within the 
monument which have not been explored. There are many fine 
springs m the park, which furnish water to visitors. During the 
winter hundreds of deer come down into the park. 

Mr. John Otto, of Fruita, Colo., has acted as custodian of this 
monument since June 7, 1911, and has single handed surveyed and 
built several good roads and trails and has carved steps in the mono- 
liths which form the chief scenic features of the monument. Mr. 
Otto spends practically all of his time in the monument and is con- 
tinually at work in making the monument more attractive and 
accessible. 



13 

By order of February 19, 1915, the President modified the original 
proclamation to the extent of authorizing the Secretary of the 
Interior to issue permits to the town of Fniita to occupy and use 
certain lands in this monument in township 11 south, range 102 
west, sixth principal meridian, for the construction, operation, and 
maintenance of a conduit and related works for municipal water 
supply and power development. 



29 




1^Jt.IN.R.2W. U.Me^^ 



31 



>^ii)>:iiX 




zo 



29 



32 



^^ 



16 



^ 



4^ 



22 



28 <sNwe^ 
— ^ 



33 



10 II ^ 



14 



23 



26 



34 ^:^<i35 



*5 



h 



T.I IS. 
6v?RM. 



3TJ2S. 
6^ P.M. 



R.102W. 

cXno t 



6^*? P.M. 



R.IOI W. 

6^.':' P.M. 



^\i:i^^i^>^^Ci^^ Monument Boondsry. 



Colorado National Monument, Colo., embracing parts of Tps. 11 and 12 S., Rs. 101 and 102 W. of the 
sixth principal meridian, and part of sec. 32, T. 1 N., R. 2 W. of the Ute meridian, Colorado, con- 
taining 13,833.06 acres; created May 24, 1911. 

DEVILS TOWER NATIONAL MONUMENT. 

The extraordinary mass of igneous rock known as the Devils 
Tower is one of the most conspicuous and notable features in the 
Black Hills region, and has been known and utilized doubtless from 
time immemorial by the aborigines of the plains and mountains, for 
the American Indian of the last century was found to be directing 
his course to and from the hunt and foray by reference to this lofty 



14 

pile. In their turn the white pioneers of civihzation, in their ex- 
ploration of the great Northwest, which began with the expedition 
of the Verendryes, pathfinders of the French Colonies of Canada, in 
1742, utihzed the tower as a landmark, and still later the military 
expeditions into the Sioux and Crow Indian country during the 
Indian wars of the last century carried on operations within sight of 
the Devils Tower or directed their march by the aid of its ever-present 
beacon, for the tower is visible in some directions in that practically 
cloudless region for nearly 100 miles. 

The tower is a steep-sided shaft rising 600 feet above a rounded 
ridge of sedimentary rocks, about 600 feet high, on the west bank 



T53N.--I 




Devils Tower National Monument, Wyo., embracing sec. 7 and tlie N. J NE. }, the NE. i NW. h and lot 
No. 1, sec. 18, T. 53 N., R. 65 W.; tlie E. 4 sec. 12 and the N. i NE. J sec. 13, T. 53 N., R. 66 AV., sixth 
principal meridian; created September 24, 1906. 

of the Belle Fourchc River. Its nearly flat to]) is elliptical in outline, 
with a diameter varying from 60 to 100 feet. Its sides are strongly 
fluted by the great columns of igneous rock, and are nearly perpen- 
dicular, except near the top, where there is some rounding, and near 
the bottom, where there is considerable outward flare. The base 
merges into a talus of huge masses of broken columns lying on a plat- 
form of the lower buff sandstone of the Sundance geologic forma- 
tion. Ascent can be made by the general public to the top of the 
base Avhich surrounds the tower proper; it is not possible, however, 
for ascent of the tower to be made. The tower has been scaled in 
the past by means of special apparatus, but only at considerable risk. 
The great columns of which the tower consists are mostly pen- 
tagonal in shape, but some are four or six ^ided. The average diam- 
eter is 6 feet, and in general the columns taper slightly toward the 



15 

top. In places several columns unite in their upper portions to fonn 
a large fluted column. The columns slope inward toward the top. 
They are not much jointed, but are marked horizontally by faint 
ridges or swellings, which give the rock some appearance of bedding, 
especially toward the top of the tower. In the lower quarter or third 
of the tower the columns bend outward and merge rapidly into mas- 
sive rock, which toward the base shows but little trace of columnar 
structure. This massive rock circles the tower as a bench, extending 
out from 30 to 40 feet. On the southwest face the long columns curve 
outward over the massive, basal portion and lie nearly horizontal. 
The rugged pile of talus extends high up the lower slojies of the mas- 
sive bench at the base of the tower and also far doA\Ti the adjoining 
slopes of sedimentary rocks. 

The nearest settlement to this national monument is Tower, in 
Crook County, which is reached by stage from Moorcroft, Wyo,, a 
distance of 32 miles. Moorcroft is on the Chicago, Burlington & 
Quincy Railway. The tower may also be reached by conveyance 
from Hulett, Wyo., which in turn is reached by stage from Aladdin, 
the western terminus of the Wyoming & Missouri River Railway. 

DINOSAUR NATIONAL MONUMENT. 

This national monument, created by proclamation dated October 4, 
1915, embraces 80 acres of land in Uinta County, northeastern Utah, 
east of Vernal, and near the Colorado boundary. By this procla- 
mation lands are reserved upon which is located an extraordinary 
deposit of dinosaurian and other gigantic reptilian fossil remams, of 
the Juratrias geologic period, whicli are of great scientific interest 
and value, the object of creation of the monument being to prevent 
their unauthorized excavation and removal. 

This tract is best reached from Mack, Colo., on the main line of the 
Denver & Rio Grande Railroad, by narrow-gauge railroad to Watson, 
Utah, a distance of 65 miles; thence by automoblie to Vernal, Utah, 
a distance of 54 miles; thence by a good wagon or automobile road 
to the monument, 18 miles additional. In going from Salt Lake 
City the traveler woidd leave the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad at 
Helper, Utah, from which point there is an automobile stage line 
thi'ough the former Uintah Indian Reservation, a distance of 120 
miles to Vernal. Tlie monument can also be reached by automobile 
from Salt Lake City over a newly constructed road through the 
Uintah Basin via Jensen, Utah, the trip occupying one day. Surveys 
are being made for new railroad construction in the vicinity of the 
monument, and doubtless access will in the near future be made 
much easier. 

The Uintah Basin has been known since 1870 to be rich in fossil 
remains, and several expeditions by scientists mto the Basin prior to 
1908 met with much success in locating portions of dmosaur skele- 
tons. In the latter year the first expedition sent out by the Carnegie 
Museum, of Pittsburgh, found such promising material that a 
special search for remains of dinosaurs was undertaken in 1909 by 
the museum, with result that in August of that year Prof. Earl B. 
Douglass, in charge of the expedition, found in a somewhat peculiar 
sandstone formation a complete skeleton of a dinosaur, in excellent 
preservation, which was the first complete skeleton ever discovered. 



16 

Excavation incident to removal of the skeleton resulted in location 
of the most extensive and wonderful deposit of fossils of extinct ani- 
mal life of this geologic period known to science. 

According to the theory advanced by most scientists who have vis- 
ited the monument, many dinosaurs and other prehistoric animals 
must have floated down some ancient river, from a source unknown, 
and become embedded in a sand bar. There they lay for countless 
years until they were covered to a great depth in the sand. Then 



S€a26' 



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Dinosaur National Monument, Utah, embracing the NW. J of the SE. \ and the NE. } of the SW. 1 of 
sec. 26, (unsurveyed) in T. 4 S., R. 23 E., Salt Lake Mer; created October 4, 1915. 

came a seismic upheaval which forced the sand bed among the 
mountain tops. 

The Carnegie Museum filed a claim under the mineral laws to the 
location, and at considerable expense conducted extensive quarry- 
ing operations. This quarry has been a continuous surprise in the 
great number of species of these remains and the number of almost 
complete skeletons and skulls which it has produced, perfect skulls 
being especially rare among the relics of dinosaurs. 

By decision of August 6, 1915, the department held that the lands 
witHin the Carnegie Museum's placer claim could not be obtained 



17 

under the mining laws, and recommended to the President the desira- 
bihty of creating a national monument to embrace the tract in which 
this fossil deposit is located, in order that the remains might be pre- 
served for the use of scientific institutions and for the benefit of the 
general public. This action resulted in the proclamation of October 
4, 1915. The department has, however, granted a permit to the 
museum to continue its excavations during the year 1916, and to 
remove the specimens found. 

The work under the direction of the museum has reached gigantic 
proportions, and a great quarry has been gradually developed. As 
fast as the bones are uncovered, if there is danger of their bemg broken 
off, they are covered with plaster of paris, and as soon as they are 
taken out they are covered with burlap steeped in wet plaster of 
paris, so that when this wrapping sets the bones are protected from 
any danger of being broken in transit. Every foot of the quarry has 
been surveyed and platted, and a chart prepared showing where 
every bone was located. The rock is chiseled with the greatest care, 
removing from the bones a thin layer at a time. The work is often 
very difficult because sometimes the bones will be found jumbled 
together, surrounded by a hard casmg of sandstone. Each bone is 
painted brown, as it rests in the stone, so that it can not by any possi- 
bility be mistaken by a workman for rock. The greatest achievement 
so far accomplished has been the uncovering of the largest Bronto- 
saurus known to science. Two years were consumed in removing the 
bones of this one monster from the rock. The work of shipping the 
specimens is most arduous, as they must be hauled by wagon 65 miles 
to the raihoad. 

EL MOBRO NATIONAL MONUMENT. 

A feature of great historic interest and importance is the so-called 
El Morro or Inscription Rock, some 35 miles almost due east of Zuni 
Pueblo in western-central New Mexico. 

El Morro is an enormous sandstone rock rising a couple of hundred 
feet out of the plain and eroded in such fantastic forms as to give it 
the appearance of a great castle, hence its Spanish name A small 
spring of water at the rock made it a convenient camping place for 
the Spanish explorers of the sixteenth, seventeenth, and eighteenth 
centuries, and the smooth face of the "castle" well adapted it to 
receive the inscriptions of the concruerors of that early period. 

The earliest msoription is dated February 18, 1526. Historically 
the most important inscription is that of Juan de Onate, a colonizer 
of Now Mexico and the founder of the city of Santa Fe, in 1606. It 
was in this year that Onate visited El Morro and carved this inscrip- 
tion on his return from a trip to the head of the Gulf of California. 
There are 19 other Spanish mscriptions of almost equal importance, 
among them that of Don Diego de Vargas, who in 1692 reconquered 
the Pueblo Indians after their rebellion agamst Spanish authority in 
1680. 

It is not too much to say that no rock formation in the West or 
perhaps in the world is so weU adapted to the purpose for which this 
table of stone was used — at least history does not record any collec- 
tion of similar data. Here are records covering two centuries, some 
of which are the only extant memoranda of the early expeditions and 

84490°— 17 3 



18 

explorations of what is now tlie southwestern part of the United 
States. On these smooth walls, usually under some projecting 
stratum, inscriptions were cut by the early conq^uerors and explorers, 
which have made this rock one among the most mteresting objects on 
the continent. 

Here, in this remote and uninhabited region, in the shadows of one 
of nature's most unique obelisks, wrapped in the profound silence 
of the desert, with no living thing to break the stillness, it is hard to 
realize that 300 years ago these same walls echoed the clank of steel 
harness and coats of mail; that with the implements of Spanish con- 
quest the pathfinders in the New World were carving historical rec- 
ords upon the eternal rock. 

Locally Inscription Rock and El Morro are known as separate and 
distinct monumental rocks. The latter, translated The Castle, is the 
rock standing out in bold relief to the east, while Inscription Rock is 
the name applied to the formation to the west, which is a part of the 
mesa. On the south side, in the angle formed by the two, one extend- 
ing east and the other south, is a great chamber or cavern, a natural 
amphitheater where secure refuge from storm or human foe could 
easily be secured. It is here, too, that the only spring within many 
miles weUs up as if to make the natural fortification doubly secure. 
Upon these walls are many of the best preserved Spanish inscrip- 
tions, although there are quite a number 200 feet east, under the 
shadows of a stately pine tree and on the north side of El Morro. 
Most of them are as plain and apparently as legible as the day they 
were written ; especially is this true of the older ones, carved during 
the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. 

The existence of extensive, prehistoric ruins on the very summit of 
Inscription Rock is another feature of interest. On the top of the 
rock a deep cleft or canyon divides the western end of the formation. 
On each oi these arms is the remnant of large communal houses or 
pueblos. Some of the walls are yet standing, and the ground plans 
of the structures are well defined. That on the south arm, and almost 
overhanging the cavern and spring, is approximately 200 by 150 feet. 
Some of the buildings must have been more than one story in height. 

The remarkable natural defenses of the site and the existence of 
the spring doubtless induced the builders to select this odd location. 
At some distant day it may be desirable to excavate these ruins and 
thus add to this historic spot attractions for the scientist as weU as 
the general pubhc who are interested in scenic and natural curiosities. 

This monument is usually visited from Thoreau or Gallup, N. Mex., 
the points from which access is most easily had. These points are on 
the main line of the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railway, and the 
visit to the monument is made by team and camp outfit. The trip is 
made in four days, in five for better comfort, and the cost for team, 
mountain hack, and driver, not including cost of provisions and feed 
of team, is from $6 to $8 per day. Good fivery may be had at both 
of said points. 

The main (Chicago to San Francisco) line of the Atchison, To- 
peka & Santa Fe Railway is the only railroad through the district, 
and one would have to travel hundreds of miles overland to reach the 
monument by any other railroad. The monument is approximately 
40 miles by stage from Thoreau, N. Mex., and 55 miles by like con- 
veyance from Gallup, N. Mex. 



19 

The country traversed in a visit from Gallup or Thoreau is a liigh, 
rolling plateau of fair scenic beauty. Plenty of water holes are 
present along the road, and firewood can be had in abundance at most 
any place. Some forest is encountered on the road from Gallup. 
The monument can be visited at all seasons of the year, the simamer, 
of course, being the most delightful time. The winters in the section 
are not cold or severe, and visits could be made at that time com- 
fortably. A visit to this monument can be enhvened by incorporat- 
ing with it a trip to the Pueblo of the Zuni Indians, there visiting 
the United States Indian school and village. This visit can be made 
without detouring any extent while going to the monument. The 
village mentioned is spoken of in the records of the visits of the first 
Spanish explorers to the region in the latter part of the fifteenth and 




El Morro National Monument, N. Mcx.. embracing the S. i NE. i and N. J SE. J see. 6, T. 9 N., R. 14 W., 
New Mexico meridian; created December 8, 1906. 

first part of the sixteenth centuries, and is the oldest continuously 
occupied Pueblo Indian village in existence so far as is known. 

During January of 1917 the National Park Service caused to be 
constructed a substantial fence If miles in length at the base of 
Inscription Rock for the protection of the inscriptions against depre- 
dations of cattle, and as an inclosure for visitors' stock; and in order 
to secure an ample supply of water has caused the ancient spring to 
be thoroughly cleaned out. 

GRAN QTJIVIRA NATIONAL MONTJMENT. 

The Gran Quivira has long been recognized as one of the most 
important of the earliest Spanish church or mission ruins in the South- 
west. Near by are numerous Indian pueblo ruins of community 
buildings occupying an area of probably 80 acres in extent, which, 
with sufficient land to protect them, were reserved by the proclamation 
creating this monument. 



20 

The outside dimensions of the church ruin, which is in the form of 
a short-arm cross, are about 48 by 140 feet. The main walls of 
this edifice are from 4 to 6 feet in thickness and constructed of a 
dense limestone laid in courses in a natural mud bond, the interior 
section of the walls being a coarse aggregate of mud and broken 
rock, and the exterior faces of the walls being laid up nicely in 
courses of selected stone. The present height from the ground inside 
tliis chamber to the top of the wall is some 23 to 25 feet, but an old 
excavation at one end of the chamber into the debris that partially 
fills the same shows that the floor of this chamber was perhaps 12 
to 15 feet under the present surface, making the original waUs from 
the foundation some 40 feet in height. The west end of this chamber 
is arched in the form of a nave, and near the west end two side rooms 
existed, one on each side, completing the cross plan of the structure. 

The main community buildmg, lying just to the south of this 
church was a completed structure at least three stories in height, 
being built in the same way that all the community buildings of the 
original inhabitants of the Southwest were built — that is, with little 
rooms some 12 to 15 feet square and 8 to 10 feet high, set in adjoin- 
ing tiers, with a httle door commmiicating between each room, and 
havmg thi'ee or more tiers of this character of structure, one upon 
the other, communication with the different stories being by ladder 
through i:)ort holes. Enough of the walls of this main building are 
present to show that it "was at least three stories in height, and said 
walls are built in a manner similar to the walls of the church building 
the interior walls being about 5 feet thick and the exterior wall being 
some 30 inches thick. The roof has fallen m and the main portion of 
the house is filled in part with debris from the roof and the crumbled 
side walls. 

The rest of the surrounding buildings are in complete ruin, being 
for the most part heaps of broken stone and mud mortar, indicating 
merely their original outline and location. 

No excavation of any moment has been done upon this monu- 
ment. The main church building would need only about 15 feet of 
excavation, but the dimensions and nature of this structure are 
plainly evident and nicely preserved in its present state, the walls 
being only partially crumbled at the top in different sections. Only 
enough excavation on the main community building, lying imme- 
diately to the south of the church, has been done to disclose the 
fact that it was about three or more stories in height, and to get 
the actual dimensions and number of rooms, considerable work of that 
character would be required, although from its present condition a 
very good suggestion of its original outline and dimensions can be 
had. 

The altitude at the ruins is about 6,800 feet and the rums them- 
selves are built upon an eminence visible for a great distance, com- 
mandmg a vast expanse in all directions. 

They are not fenced, but lie out on the open, rolling prairie which 
is used only as a grazing comitry for sheep and cattle. 

For the reason that water has not been developed in this vicinity 
the country is not inhabited for many miles around. 

On September 12, 1910, the Interior Department requested the 
Department of Agriculture to assume temporary charge of patrol 
and protection of this monument, in view of the better facilities at 



21 

the disposal of the Forest Service in the Manzano National Forest, 
inasmuch as the monument is remote from location of any field 
officer of the Interior Department; and this charge was accepted by 
the Department of Agriculture. A ranger of the Forest Service 
of that department visits the monument every few weeks. 

The Business Men's Association of Mountainair, N. Mex,, is very 
active in preservation t>f the monument and in prevention of van- 
dalism, the site being visited (except in winter) by some member of 
the association at least once every two weeks. 

On account of the altitude of the monument the region is subject 
to heavy snows between the middle of December and the latter part 




////////M/// Monumeni Boundary 



Gran Quivira National Monument, N. Mex., embracing unsurveyed N. \ of N. | sec. 3, T. 1 S., R. 8 
E., New Mexico principal meridian; created November 1, 1909. 

of March, so that visits to the monument during those months are 
not practicable. At other seasons the monument is best reached by 
stage or automobile by a good road from Mountainair, which is 24 
miles distant on the Santa Fe Railway. Service of both classes may 
be obtained in Mountainair at any tune, the parties operating auto- 
mobiles for benefit of tourist traffic having estabhshed a schedule, 
so that parties of four people can visit the monument for $12 for the 
round trip; and parties of three persons or less, $10 for the round 
trip. There are no accommodations at the ruins, but water can be 
found along the route. The automobile trip occupies one day. 



22 

Other points of exceeding interest to tourists are located in the 
immediate vicinity of Mountainair and the Gran Quivira National 
Monument, though not upon Federal reservations. These are the 
ruins of Montezuma, of a nature similar to the Gran Quivira and 
some 8 miles to the northwest thereof; the region of Abo and the 
Pamted Rocks, having a rather interesting geological origin, show- 
ing geologic studies in liighly colored formation for a thickness of 
some 4,000 feet; the ruins and ancient Mexican villages of Cuarai, 
Punta, and Manzano, as well as Tajique and Chilili. These points 
are approximately the same distance in a northerly direction from 
Mountainair and have ancient ruins of churches and community 
dweUmgs, and are some Qf the best examples extant of the original 
plaza villages of the native Mexican population, the villages dating 
back to the ver}^ earliest Spanish settlement of this country, and 
showing the native life as it has always been, without alteration. 

LEWIS AND CLARK CAVERN NATIONAL MONUMENT. 

The feature of this monument is a limestone cavern of great scien- 
tific interest, because of its length and because of the number of large 
vaulted chambers it contains. It is of historic interest, also, because 
it overlooks for a distance of more than 50 miles the trail of Lewis 
and Clark along the Jefferson River, named by them. The vaults 
of the cavern are magnificiently decorated with stalactite and stalag- 
mite formations of great variety m size, form, and color, the equal 
of, if not rivahng, the similar formations in the weU-known Luray 
caves in Virgmia. 

The cavern is located about three-quarters of a mile northeasterly 
from Cavern, a post office in Jefferson County, and a station on the 
Northern Pacific Railway about 45 miles southwest from Butte, 
Mont. It is situated m a massive deposit of what is known as Madi- 
son limestone, which at this place dips steeply to the southwest. The 
various chambers in the cave as far as explored extend for a distance 
of about 700 feet horizontally and 350 feet vertically, but there are 
many openmgs and passages that have never been explored. The 
chambers and passages seem in general to foUow the dip of the for- 
mation. The cavern is best reached by following the railroad track 
easterly for about a quarter of a mile and then followmg a circuitous 
road or trail about 1^ miles. The mouths of the cavern are 1,300 feet 
above the railroad, and the climb, requiring about an hour and a half, 
is arduous. There are two entrances both situated upon the walls of a 
deep canyon about 500 feet below the rim. The smaller entrance, 
which is merely a hole about 6 feet m diameter opening into the upper 
part of a large passage, can not be used as a means of access to the 
cavern unless ropes are employed. The entrances are about 125 feet 
apart. 

From the main entrance broad stairs lead irregularly to a depth of 
about 175 feet, from which level several of the most interesting parts of 
the cavern are accessible in a nearly horizontal direction. To get 
lower in the cavern a small tortuous passage is followed for 100 feet 
or more, and descent is made by ladders. 

Depredations by vandals which threatened serious harm to the 
formations in the cavern made it necessary for the department to 



23 



close tte cavern to the general public, and accordingly the main 
entrance was closed by a partition, and locked. This means was 
found to be ineffective, for the purpose intended, and during the 
month of June, 1916, a concrete and iron-barred door structure was 
installed at the main entrance, and an iron-bar frame installed over 
the smaller opening; stairs and ladders in the cave were scraped and 
repainted, and several ladders replaced. New steps at the entrance 
were built. Tlie total cost of unprovements was $980.94, and was 



18 



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Lot/2 
Sec.cx.f7 

£nf ranee 




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16 



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19 



20 



r. I N. R. 2 w. 



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////y//y/////////// Mon umen t doun dary 

Lewis and Clark Cavern National Monument, Mont., embracing lot 12, sec. 17, T. 1 N., R. 2 W.: Montana 
principal meridian; created May 11, 1908, and boundaries modified as above, May 16, 1911. 

paid from the appropriation for protecting the public lands, 1916, 
expendable under the General Land Office. 

The entrance to the cave is locked and keys are in custody of the 
chief of field division of the General Land Office in Helena, Mont. It 
will be necessary to exclude the public from the cavern until arrange- 
ments can be made to provide a custodian for the monument, who 
can conduct visitors through the cavern and guard against damage to 
the formations. 



24 

The second proclamation establishing this monument is as follows: 

WTiereas the unsurveyed tract of land containing an extraordinary limestone 
cavern and embracing 160 acres, situated in township one north, range two west 
of the Montana principal meridian, Montana, and which was created the Lewis 
and Clark Cavern National Monument by proclamation dated the 11th day of May, 
1908, has recently been definitely located by an official survey thereof, made under 
the direction of the Commissioner of the General Land Office, and such survey having 
determined that the tract in question lies wholly within the limits of the grant of the 
Northern Pacific Railway Co., but has not yet been patented to that company; 

And whereas by its quitclaim deed the said Northern Pacific Railway Co. relin- 
quished unto the United States all its right, title, and interest to lot 12, section 17, 
township 1 north, range 2 west of the Montana principal meridian, Montana, the same 
being the original tract proclaimed a national monument for the purpose of maintaining 
thereon the said Lewis and Clark Cavern National Monument, under the condition 
that the instrument of relinquishment shall become void and the premises imme- 
diately revert to the grantor should the monument no longer be maintained. 

Now, therefore, L William H. Taft, President of the United States of America, by 
virtue of the power in me vested by section two of theact of Congress approved June 8, 
1906, entitled "An act for the preservation of American antiquities," do hereby set 
aside and confirm as the Lewis and Clark Cavern National Monument the said tract, 
embracing one hundred and sixty acres of land, at and surrounding the limestone 
cavern in section seventeen, township one north, range two west, Montana, subject 
to the conditions set forth in the relinquishment and quitclaim deed No. 18129E, 
dated February 14, 1911, of the Northern Pacific Railway Company, the said tract 
being in square form and designated as lot twelve in the survey and deed, with side 
lines running north and south and all sides equidistant from the main entrance of the 
said cavern, the center of said entrance bearing north forty-nine degrees, forty-two 
minutes west, fifty-three and thirteen hundredths chains distant from the corner to 
sections sixteen, seventeen, twenty, and twenty-one, as shown upon the diagi'am 
hereto attached and made a part hereof. 

Warning is hereby expressly given to all persons not to appropriate, injure, or 
destroy any of the natural formations in the cavern hereby declared to be a- national 
monument, nor to locate or settle upon any of the lands reserved and made a part of 
said monument by this proclamation. 

In witness whereof I have hereunto set my hand and caused the seal of the United 
States to be affixed. 

Done at the city of Washington this sixteenth day of May, in the year 
[seal.] of our Lord one thousand nine hundred and eleven, and of the inde- 

pendence of the United States the one hundred and thirty-fifth. 

MONTEZUMA CASTLE NATIONAL MONUMENT. 

This national monument is situated 3 miles east of Camp Verde, in 
the northeastern part of Yavapai County, Ai*iz., and contains an 
assemblage of cUff dwellings, from the principal of which, known as 
Montezuma's Castle, the monument is named. This structm-e is 
of very great interest not only because of its pictiu'esqueness but for 
ethnological and other scientific reasons. It is strictly a chff dwell- 
ing, with the added importance that it is also a communal house. 
Although very small as compared with the great ruins of Chaco 
Canyon, Canyon de Chelley, Mesa Verde, the Mancos, and other 
localities in the Southwest, it is so unique in location and structural 
design and so perfectly preserved that it may be said to have no 
equal in the United States. 

The character of the material used in the Verde cliff ruins, adobe, 
rubble, and a soft calcareous stone, has rendered the progress of 
disintegration and ruin somewhat rapid, though many centuries 
must have elapsed since the passing of the race. The Mojave Apache 
Indians, who occupied the vaUey at the advent of the white men, 
have no tradition respecting the existence of the people who formerly 
occupied this region. Montezuma's Castle, it is stated, is the only 



25 

single perfect specimen and type of the architectural skill of thie 
prehistoric chff dwellers of this valley. 

The monument embraces a prehistoric cliff-dweUing ruin of un- 
usual size situated in a niche or cavity in the face of a vertical chff 
175 feet in height. The formation exposed along the face of the cUff 
is a compact tufa or volcanic ash. About half way up the cUff there 
is a bed of soft, imconsohdated tufa which has suffered considerable 
erosion, leaving irregular-shaped cavities. The bed of soft material 
is overlain by a harder formation which has withstood erosion and 
thus formed an overhanging sheltering reef. 

The cUff-dwelhng ruin known as Montezuma's Castle is situated in 
one of these cavities, the foundation being about 80 feet above the 




Sec.ja 



%\W.V//, 



L/nsurueytd 



Montezuma Castle National Monument, Ariz., embracing the NW. JNW. Jsec. 16, the N. J NE. J and 
NE. \ NW. \ see. 17, T. 14 N., R. 5 E., Gila and Salt River meridian; created December 8, 1906. 

base of the chff. The unique position and size of the ruin give it the 
appearance of an ancient castle and doubtless accounts for the pres- 
ent name. Access to the castle or ruin is made from the base of the 
chff by means of wooden ladders placed against the face of the chff 
and anchored thereto with iron pins. 

The structure is about 50 feet in height by 60 feet in width, built 
in the form of a crescent, with the convex part against the cliff. It 
is five stories liigh, the fifth story being back under the chff and 
protected by a masom-y wall 4 feet high, so that it is not visible from 
the outside. The walls of the structure are of niasonry and adobe, 
plastered over on the inside and outside with mud. The cliff forms 
the back part of the structm-e, the front and outer walls being bound 

84490°— 17 4 



26 

to the cliff %vith round timbers 6 to 10 inches in diameter, the outside 
ends projecting through the outer walls and the other end placed 
against the cliff. Tliese timbers serve as joists for the several stories, 
the floors being made by placing small poles at right angles to the 
larger timbers and covering with a thatch of ^^nillows, on top of 
which there is a covering of mud and stones 8 inches thick. 

From the appearance of the walls now standing, the structure orig- 
inally contained 25 rooms, 19 of which are now in fairly good condi- 
tion. Besides the main building, there are many cave chambers 
below and at each side of the castle. These small chambers are 
neatly walled up in front and have small doorways. 

The rooms average about 6 by 8 feet in size and are about 7 feet 
high. They are comiected by small doorw^ays, and the outside rooms 
have small peepholes, from which a view of the outside can be had. 
These were probably used for portholes through which arrows could 
be shot. 

The timbers in the building are hacked on the ends and were 
doubtless cut with stone axes. They are in a good state of preserva- 
tion, no decay having set in oA\dng to the dry cHmate. The main part 
of the structure is sheltered by the overhanging cUff, and the walls, 
thus protected from storms, are in good condition. The front part 
of the structure is not so well protected and the outer waUs are 
wearing away and crumbling. They are broken in various ways and 
some are partially fallen and others remain simply as wing walls, 
without support. Others are cracked and broken so that their adhe- 
sive quahties are missing. A slight pressure might serve to precipi- 
tate them to the ground. The greatest care should be observed by 
visitors on this account, and also in going upon floors to upper rooms, 
because the original timbers have become very brittle through age 
and will not withstand much weight. 

The method principally employed by the public in reaching the 
castle is by automobile from Prescott, on the Santa Fe, Prescott & 
Phoenix Railroad, a branch of the Santa Fe system, 54 miles to the 
west; or from Jerome, Aiiz., on a branch hne of the same railroad, 27 
miles distant from the monument. A fine automobile road has recently 
been constructed from Prescott to Camp Verde, a small settlement 3 
miles west of the castle, and the trip from Prescott to the castle and 
return can now be comfortably made in one day. The castle can also 
be reached from Flagstaff, a station on the main Hne of the Santa Fe 
Railway, 58 miles to the north. The roads, however, are very heavy, 
and the trip can not be made by automobile without considerable 
difficulty. Tom-ists frequently make the trip from Flagstaff by team, 
as it affords an opportunity of going through the large pine forest 
lying to the south of Flagstaff. There are two garages in Prescott 
making a specialty of taking parties to the castle. Each fiu-nishes a 
driver who acts as a guide. 

Visitors to the Castle should avoid periods of high water, because 
the cUff in which the castle is located rises from the bed of Beaver 
Creek, and for a distance of some 300 yards the water comes in con- 
tact with the edge of the cliff. For this reason the castle is prac- 
tically inaccessible at times of high water. 



27 

MUIR WOODS NATIONAL MONUMENT. 

The Muir Woods, named in honor of the late John Miiir^ (1838- 
1914), explorer, natiu-alist, and wTiter, were established as a national 
monument by proclamation of January 9, 1908. The monument was 
created to preserve a remarkable grove of redwood trees on a tract 
of land presented to the Government for this purpose by William Kent 
and his wife, Elizabeth Thatcher Kent, of Chicago, 111. 

The deed conveying this land to the United States described it as 
follows : 

Beginning at a stake, A. 7, driven in the center of the road in Redwood Canon 
and located by the following courses and distances from the point of commencement 





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Muir Woods National Monument, Cal., in T. 1 N., R. G W., Mount Diablo meridian; created January 9, 1908. 

of the tract of land which was conveyed by the Tamalpais Land and Water Company 
to William Kent by a deed dated August 29th, 1905, and recorded in the office of 
the county recorder of Marin County, California, Book 95 of Deeds, at page 58, to wit: 
North eighteen degrees thirty-two minutes, east two hundred thirty-two and sixty- 
four hundredths feet, north sixty-six degrees thirty minutes, west one hundred and 
sixty-seven and thirty-four hundredths feet, north eighty-six degrees twenty-five 

I The name was selected by the donor, William Kent, who declined to accept the President's suggestion 
that the reservation should be named the Kent Monument. For the correspondence regarding the gift 
and the name, see the Sierra (.'lub Bulletin, Vol. VI, pp. 2^7-288, 1910. 

Recollections of Muir by several friends and a bibliography of his works may be found in the Jolin Muir 
memorial number of the Sierra Club Bulletin, vol. X, Jan., 191G. 



28 

minutes, west ninety-eight and sixty-two hundredths feet, north seventy degrees no 
minutes, west two hundred and forty-one and seven hundredths feet, north fifty-seven 
degrees twenty-nine minutes, west one hundred seventy-eight and three-hundred ths 
feet, north forty-six degrees twenty-two minutes, west two hundred thirty-five and 
thirty-nine hundredths feet, and north twenty-four degrees twenty-five minutes, west 
two liundred twenty-five and fifty-six hundredths feet; thence from said stake, A. 7, 
the point of beginning, south fifty-four degrees nineteen minutes, west foiarteen 
hundred eighty-two and seven-tenths feet to Station A. 8, from which Station 4 of 
the siu-vey of the tract of land conveyed to William Kent as aforesaid bears south 
fifty-four degi'ees nineteen minutes, west three hundred ten feet distant; thence 
from said Station A. 8 north forty-seven degrees thirty minutes, west twenty-six 
hundred eighty feet; thence due west six hundred fifty and eight- tenths feet; thence 
north fifty-two degrees thirty minutes, Avest eleven hundred feet; thenc'e north nine- 
teen degrees forty-five minutes, west ten hundred fifty-eight and four-tenths feet to 
Station A. 12, from wliich Station 16 of the survey of the tract of land conA^eyed to 
William Kent as aforesaid bears south eighty-three degrees forty-two minutes, west 
three hundred ten feet distant; thence north eighty-three degrees forty-two minutes, 
east thirty-one hundred nine and two-tenths feet; thence north fifty-five degrees 
twenty-eight minutes, east fifteen hundred fifty feet to an iron bolt, three-quarters 
of an inch in diameter and thirty inches long. Station 14; thence south seventeen 
degrees eighteen minutes, east twenty-eight hundred twenty and nine-tenths feet; 
thence south four degrees ten minutes, east nine hundred thirty feet to a stake, A. 16, 
driven in the center of a graded road ; and thence south f orty-fiA''e degrees seventeen 
minutes, west two hundred ninety-eight and five-tenths feet to said stake A. 7, the 
place of beginning. ContainLag an area of two hundred ninety-five acres, a little 
more or less. 

These lands consist of one of the most noted redwood groves in the 
State of Cahfornia, and until donated to the Government were held 
in private ownership by Mr. Kent. The tract is of great scientific 
interest, as it contains many redwood trees which have gro"«Ti to a 
height of 300 feet and have a 'diameter at the butt of 18 feet or more. 
The tract is heavily wooded and contains, in addition to redwood, 
much oak and Douglas fir. 

The monument may be readily reached from San Francisco, Cal., 
by ferrj^boat to Sausalito, thence to Mill Valley by electric train. 
The distance in direct line is about 7 miles. It is in close proximity 
to a large and growing suburban population. 

Mr. Andrew Lind, appointed custodian of this monument in con- 
nection with, the Field Service of the General Land Office on July 1 !•, 
1910, is still in charge. He is engaged exclusively in patrolling the 
monument, enforcing the rules and regulations, and in removing 
debris from the roads and trails. He reports that during the past 
year visitors to the park num.bered approximately 35,000. 

MUKnNTTJWEAP NATIONAL MONUMENT. 

The Mukuntuweap National Monument, Utah, embraces among 
other mountain scenery the magnificent gorge of the North Fork of 
the Virgin River called the Mukuntuweap^ Canyon by the Powell 
Topograpliic Survey of Southwestern Utah (Kanab sheet), known 
locally as Zion Canyon, The monument is located in the eastern 
part of Washington County. It was formed apparently by some 
powerful upheaval of nature which divided the mountain as it for- 
merly existed at its crest. From the top of the walls forming this 
canyon the country slopes away and not toward it, as is usually the 
case. This upheaval of nature left standing vertical walls on either 

1 Themeaningofthisnameis variously given as"Rocky land, ""Yellow land, "or"Home of the Gods." 
Maj. Powell, who first published the name, says: "The Indians call the canyon Mu-koon-tu-weap, or 
Straight Canyon." (Exploration Colorado River of the West, p. Ill, 1875.) 



29 

side, thus forming the canyon through which flows the North Fork of 
the Virgin River. At its south end the canyon is about 2,500 feet 
wide> but it gradually narrows for a distance of about 7 miles until 
a point is reached where, with outstretched arms, the finger tips touch 
the walls on either side. At a number of places the walls of this 
canyon rise vertically to a height of about 3,000 feet, exliibiting a 
plane surface of extremely hard pink sandstone, greater in area, it is 
said, than may be found in the Grand Canyon of the Colorado. 
These walls are practically unscalable within the hmits of the monu- 
ment, except at one point about 5 miles from the southern end and 
8 miles from the northern extremity. 

Distributed along the canyon are a number of waterfalls formed by 
the small mountain streams leaping from the dizzy heights of the 
chffs above. Tlie barrenness of the w^alls and cliffs is relieved by a 
variety of mountain trees, including ash, maple, oak, and spruce. 
Unhke other great can3^ons having rugged and uneven walls, this 
presents the appearance of a mighty mountain cut in two, to obtain 
a segment for the purpose of studying its cross section. Entering 
the canyon from the south one gets a view of a part of this cross 
section, which assumes the form of a huge battleship. This is kno^vn 
by most people living in the locahty as ''Steamboat Mountain." 
Farther along other peaks stand presenting the appearance of cross 
sections of castles or fortresses rather than the structure complete. 

At some points the mighty stone walls are of beautiful tints. The 
faces of some of these walls contain thousands of square feet of plane 
surface upon wliich are depicted various figures. At one point may be 
seen the figures of a woman, a horse, and a pig, forining a distinct 
group. At another an eagle perched, true to this bird's instinct, high 
upon the chffs. At other points, by the shelhng off of the stone sur- 
face, crypts have been formed in the walls in which may be seen other 
forms seemingly sculptured. Nature seems to have made of this 
canyon an art gallery of stupendous proportions. The walls stand 
just far enough av.^ay to afford the proper perepective ; the waterfalls 
seem to have been placed to the best advantage; and the trees cling 
to the rocky ledges just at the right places to produce the best effects. 

It is stated that the views into the canyon from its rim are exceeded 
in beauty and grandeur only by the similar views into the Grand 
Canyon of the Colorado. 

The monument can best be reached by the Salt Lake route, leaving 
the tram at Lund in the western part of Iron County, and thence 
proceeding by auto stage to Hurricane, via Cedar City. ' From Lund 
to Hurricane, a distance of about 85 miles, is an excellent auto road 
in summer. Hurricane can also be reached from Salt Lake City by 
auto via Fillmore, Beaver, Parowan, and Cedar City. At Hurricane 
teams may be secured to complete the trip, either by vehicle or 
horseback. This is the best road, as the road is excellent to within 
about 20 miles of the monument, whereas by the Marysvale- 
Panguitch route it is necessary to travel over at least 55 miles of 
bad road. When the State highway to the Grand Canyon of the 
Colorado River shaU have been completed this monument will be 
only about 25 miles from the main road from Salt Lake to the Grand 
Canyon. The National Park Transportation and Camping Co., W. W. 
Wylie, president, will operate permanent camps in the monument, 



30 



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Mukuntuweap National Monument, Utah, embracing sees. 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, 10, 14, 15, 16, 21, 22, 23, 26, 27, 
28, 33, and 34, T. 40 S., R. 10 W., and all of the Mukuntuweap Canyon in T. 41 S., JR. 10 W., Salt Lake 
meridian; created July 31, 1909. 



31 

and an automobile and transportation line thereto from Lund, Utah. 
Saddle horses will also be available. 

Those desiring to make the trip by automobile may obtain detailed 
and definite information concerning roads, hotels, oil, gasoline, routes, 
distances, etc., by writing the "Pubhcity Bureau, Commercial Club, 
Salt Lake City," or from the Utah Automobile Association, at Salt 
Lake City. 

The deficiency appropriation act approved September 8, 1916, 
m.ade an appropriation, in the following terms: 

For a proportionate share of the amount required to construct an interstate wagon 
road or highwajr through the Mukuntuweap National Monument, Utah, approxi- 
mately fifteen miles, §15,000. 

Under the terais of this act road construction is now under way 
within the monument, and the State of Utah is rebuddhig the road 
leading from ToquervOle and Hurricane to the monument. It is 
expected that the entire route will be completed and in good con- 
dition for auto travel in the summer of 1917. 

NATURAL BRIDGES NATIONAL MONUMENT, 

This monument is located in the vicinity of Bluff, San Juan County, 
in the extreme southeastern portion of Utah, and was created origi- 
nally by presidential proclamation of April 16, 1908. It embraces 
three separate tracts of land, the largest containing the three great 
natural bridges, viz: The Sipapu, kiiown locally as the Augusta 
Bridge; the Kachina, called the Carohne; and the Owachomo, given 
the local name of the Little Bridge.^ These bridges were discovered 
by Emery Knowles in 1895. 

A second proclamation, issued by the President September 25, 1909, 
includes, besides the three bridges originally reserved, a much more 
extended territory, but within which, along the walls of the canyons 
in the vicinity of the bridges, are fomid many prehistoric ruins of 
cavern and cliff dwellings. There are also two cavern springs con- 
taining some prehistoric ruins, which are located approximately 13 
and 19 miles southeast of the bridges, respectively. These cavern 
springs, included within the Natural Bridges Monument, are located 
upon the ancient and only trail to the bridges from the south, and 
are important way stations in the desert surrounding this monument. 
They are believed to have been originally excavatecf and used by the 
prehistoric inhabitants of the vicinity. 

A third proclamation, dated February 11, 1916, defuiitely fixes the 
location oi the objects of interest within the monument, as the 
result of a resurvey and relocation with reference to a recently 
established corner oi the public-land surveys. 

In order to reach the various points of interest it is necessary to 
use a pack train, with guides and complete camp outfit. The natural 
bridges spring from the high walls of White Canyon, through which 
part of the journey is taken, and are the result of remarkable and 
eccentric stream erosion. These bridges are understood to be 

1 Sipapu is said to mean "gate of heaven"; Kachina, "guardian spirit"; and Owachomo, "rockmound." 
The English names are more prosaic. The Augusta Bridge was named in honor of the wife of Horace J. 
Long, a mining engineer wlio, in company with James Scorup, a cattleman, visited the bridges in March, 
190'3; the Caroline Bridge in honor of Mrs. James Scorup; and the Little Bridge, sometimes known as tho 
Edwin Bridge, in honor of Col. Edwin F. Holmes of Salt Lake City, who equipped an expedition which 
visited the region in 1906 and obtained measui-ements, photographs, and sketches of the bildges. 



32 

among the largest examples of their kind, the greatest of the three 
having a height of 222 feet and being 65 feet thick at the top of the 
arch. The arch is 28 feet wide, the span is 261 feet, and the height 
of span 157 feet. The other two bridges are only a little smaller. 
All three are within a space of about 5 miles. 

There are two routes by which this monument may be reached, 
one by way of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad, detraining at 
Dolores, Colo., thence by team to Bluff, Utah, via McElmo, Colo., 
and Aneth, Utah. This necessitates travel over a fairly good road 





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Monument Boundary 

Natural Bridges National Monument, Utah, embracing a subtriangular tract, one small tract in unsur- 
veyed area and one tract in sees. 1 and 2, T. 40 S., R. 19 E., Salt Lake Meridian; created April 16, 1908, 
boundaries modified as above September 2.5, 1909. 

for a distance of approximately 80 miles before Bluff, Utah, is reached. 
The bridges are about 45 miles northwest of Bluff, thus making a 
total mileage to be traveled by horse of about 125 miles. The springs 
lie between Bluff and the bridges and c.^m be visited without making 
any side trips. Most of this route may be traveled by auto — from 
Dolores, Colo., to Bluff, Utah. Pack animals and guicles are neces- 
sary from Bluff to the monument. 

The second route may be taken by leaving the Denver & Rio 
Grande Railroad at Thompsons Station, Utah, thence by stage or 



33 

team to Moab and Monticello, Utah, a distance of about 95 miles; 
thence to the monument (bridges), a distance of approximately 50 
or 60 miles. At Monticello tourists shoidd outfit for the trip to the 
bridges. Competent guides, with pack horses, etc., including all 
necessary equipment, may be hired there at reasonable figures. This 
second route is the better, as roads and trails are better than from 
any other point. 

Tourists coming in through Colorado may, after reaching Bluff, 
Utah, go north via Grayson to Monticello, a distance of about 50 
miles, and proceed to the bridges from the latter point. As staled, 
Monticello is the best outfitting point in that section of the country 
and the best guides are to be found there. 

NAVAJO NATIONAL MONUMENT. 

The Navajo National Monument, Ariz., as originally created by 
proclamation of March 20, 1909, embraced approximately 600 acres 
within the Navajo Indian Reservation, which was reserved tenta- 
tively and with a view to reduction to such small tract or tracts as 
might thereafter be fomid to contain valuable preliistoric pueblo or 
cUtt" dwelUngs, when the extent of the same could be determined by an 
examination on the groimd and their locus definitel}'- fixed by traverse 
lines connecting them with some corner of the public survey. Both 
of these conditions having been fulfilled, the monmnent was reduced 
by proclamation dated March 14, 1912, to three small tracts aggre- 
gating 360 acres. Within two of these tracts are located, respec- 
tively, two interesting and extensive pueblo or cliff-dweUing ruins 
in a good state of preservation and known as Betata Kin and Keet 
Seel, and a third chff-dwelling ruin caUed Inscription House. 

The new boundaries of the Navajo National Monument under the 
latter proclamation are shown in figure 2. 

The Betata Kin ruin gets its name from the fact that the build- 
ings are situated on the steep sloping sides of a cliff, Betata Kin being 
the Navajo words signifying ''sidehiU house." They were found 
August 8, 1908, by J. W. WetheriU and Prof. Byron' Cummings, a 
Navajo Indian having informed Mrs. WetheriU of their existence. 

This ruin is situated at an elevation of 7,000 feet, in a crescent- 
shaped cavity 600 feet wide by 350 feet high, in the side of a soft 
red sandstone cliff which forms the walls of a small canyon. The 
location is about 2 miles west of Laguna Creek, 8 miles north of 
Marsh Pass, and 18 miles northwest of Kayenta, a post office and 
trading post on the Navajo Indian Reservation. 

An mspection of the walls of the ruin indicates that there were 
originally 106 houses or rooms. The walls of 51 rooms are now 
standing, 17 of which have weU-preserved roofs. The walls of the 
houses are constructed of sandstone blocks, held together with mud 
and mortar. The roofs are made of spruce timbers, placed crosswise 
to form joists, the ends projecting through the outer walls. Smaller 
poles are placed at right angles with these and then covered mth a 
thatch of willows and mud, which forms the roof. Inside, the floors 
are plastered with mud; and in nearly every room there is a small 
circular or square hole about 9 inches deep, which was evidently 
used for a fireplacOo The rooms have doorways or openings in the 
84490°— 17 5 



34 

roofs and sides, the largest opening noted being 18 by 30 inches. 
The average size of the rooms is 6 by 6 by 6 feet. 

The Keet Seel (Navajo for ''broken pottery") ruins were discov- 
ered in March, 1894, by Richard Wetherill. They are situated at 
an elevation of 7,100 feet, in a crescent-shaped cave 400 feet long 
by 150 feet high, near the base of a soft red sandstone cliff on t;io 




Mon ument Boundary 



Navajo National Monument, Ari^., containing 360 acres, embracing the Keet Seel and Betata Kin ruins, 
located in two small tracts of IBO acres each, along 1 aguna Creek, and Inscription House ruins, on Navajo 
Creek, in a 40-acre tract, all within the Navajo Indian Reservation; originally created Mar. 20, 190iJ, 
boundaries modified as above Mar. 1-1, 1912. 

west side of Laguna Creek, 12 miles north of Marsh Pass and 24 
miles northwest of Kayenta. 

These ruins are very much similar in construction to the Betata 
Ean Ruins, but are in a much better state of preservation. This is 
doubtless due to the fact that the overhanging cliffs protect the 
buildings from the action of storms. In the ruins there are several 
two-story buildings and two circular-shaped rooms. There are 47 
rooms with standing walls, the roofs having fallen in, and 56 rooms 



35 

covered over with well-preserved roofs. The construction of the 
roofs in these buildings is similar to those in the Betata Kin Ruins. 
The rooms are about 7 by 7 by 5 or 6 feet high. The openings or 
doorways are 18 inches by 30 inches, set about 2 feet from the floor 
of the structure. 

The ruins are difficult to reach, it being necessary to scale a steep 
sandstone cUff for a distance of 30 feet in order to reach the base of 
the ruins. 

Inscription House Ruin is located on Navajo Creek, about 20 miles 
west of the Betata Kin Ruin. This ruin is regarded as extraordinary, 



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Hep I (l\|lOQUI) INDIAN RESEtlVATION 



Navajo National Monument, Ari/,., embracing all cliff-dwelling and pueblo ruins between the parallel of 
latitude 36° 30' and 37° north and longitude 110° and 110° 45' west from Greenwich, with 40 acres of land 
in square form around each of said riiins, as originally created Mar. 20, 1909. 

not only because of its good state of preservation, but because of 
the fact that upon the walls of its rooms are found inscriptions 
written in Spanish by early explorers and plainly dated 1661. It 
is located about half way up the side of a steep cUff in a crescent- 
shaped niche or cave 15 to 50 feet in depth by 500 feet in length 
and about 75 feet m height. There is very Httle sheltering chff over 
the ruins, and they are in places easily reached by storms. 

These ruins differ from the other ruins in the material used m 
their construction. The walls are constructed of mud bricks made by 
rolhng bmiches of straw in mud and^then molding into shape. Tlie 
bricks are about 4 inches square by' about a foot or more in length 



36 

and arc laid into the walls with mud mortar. The walls thus formed 
are tough and rigid and are free from cracks. Several of the rooms 
are made of reeds and tules, set vertical and plastered over and filled 
in with mud. The roofs of the buildings are made of the mud bricks 
placed on a framework of small poles covered over with reeds and 
tules. There are 64 rooms, 30 of which are roofed over. The rooms 
are small and mostly single story. Two of the buildings are two 
stories high. The doorways are small and are built with a small 
niche at the bottom. 

The ruins can be reached only by saddle horse and pack outfit over 
a very rough trail from Marsh Pass or Kayenta. Kayenta can be 
reached by team from Flagstaff, Ariz., via Tuba, or from Gallup, 
N. Mex., either point being about 125 miles distant. At Kayenta 
pack horses, guides, and camp outfits can be secured to make a trip 
to the ruins, two or three days being required to visit the Betata 
Kin and Keet Seel Ruins, and at least three days more to visit the 
Inscription House Ruin. The Inscription House Ruin can best be 
reached from Tuba, via Red Lake, a cUstance of about 60 miles, over 
a rough mountain trail. The Santa Fe Railway is the nearest and 
most accessible railroad from which to reach the ruins. 

An interesting description of this national monument and vicinity 
is contained in Bulletin No. 50 of the Bureau of American Etlinology, 
which comprises results of explorations by Dr. Jesse Walter Fewkes, 
of that bureau, in 1909 and 1910. 

These ruins are in an excellent state of preservation, their condition 
not having changed in the past 35 years. The houses are protected 
from the elements by the overhanging cliffs, and deterioration is very 
slow. No vandahsm has occurred, as practically the only inhabitants 
in the vicinity are Indians, who refrain from molestation of the ruins 
in any manner. 

Mr. Jolin WetheriU, of Kayenta, is custodian of tliis monument, 
under appointment by the Department of the Interior dated April 9, 
1909, 

In the Indian appropriation act approved May 18, 1916, the fol- 
lowing appropriation was made for the benefit of this monument : 

For preservation and repair of prehistoric pueblo ruins and cliff dwellings, under 
supervision of the Smithsonian Institution, Navajo National Monument, Arizona, 
$3,000. 

PAPAGO SAGUARO NATIONAL MONUMENT. 

This monument was created by proclamation of January 31, 1914, 
and embraces approximately 2,050 acres of rocky and desert land in 
Maricopa County, about 9 miles east of Phoenix, Ariz. Within the 
tract is found a splendid collection of characteristic desert flora, 
including many striking examples of giant cactus (saguaro) and many 
other interesting species of cacti, such as the prickly pear, ChoUa, 
etc., as well as fijie examples of the yucca palm, aU of which are of 
great scientific interest and grow in this monument to great size and 
perfection. The saguaro is that variety of cactus which grows in a 
cylindrical form to a height of 30 or 35 feet, with from one to a 
dozen branches of the same character from the main stalk, generally 
near the top. There are also within the tract prehistoric pictographs 
wliich are lomid upon the faces of the rocks, adding to the mterest 
of the reservation and to its ethnological and archaeological value. 
Tlirough the center of the tract, running northwest and southeast, is a 



37 



ridge of low kills rising from the flat desert to a height of 150 to 200 
feet. The rocks in the ridge have been worn considerably by the ele- 
ments, resulting in numerous caves and a few openings extending 
entirel;^ through the rocks. One of these openings, known locally as 
""Hole-m-the-rock," is an aperture some 15 feet high and 25 feet long 
with an amphitheater approach to the hole on each side. These 
approach rooms are about 30 feet square, with the overhanging rock 
for a roof in each case. The monument is visited by several thousand 




////////////////////A Boundary of Monument 

Tapago Saguaro National Monument, Ariz., embracing the SE. \ of sec. 33, T. 2 N., R. 4 E.; W. \ of W. § 
sec. 3, all sec. 4, NE. ^ and E. J of SE. }, sec. 5, W. J and W. J SE. \ sec. 10, N. J N. i SE. \ and NE. \ 
of S \V. \ sec. 9, T. 1 N., R. 4 E., all east of Gila and Salt River meridian, containing 2,650.43 acres. 

people each year as a picnic ground, as it is readily reached by auto- 
mobile or team, over good roads, from Phoenix or Tempe, Ariz., 
distant respectively 9 and 3 miles. Phoenix is reached by rail by the 
Santa Fe, rrescott & Phoenix Railroad, a branch of the mam line of 
the Santa Fe Railway from Ash Fork, Ai'iz. Phoenix and Tempe 
are also reached by the Arizona & Eastern Railroad, which branches 
from the main hne of the Southern Pacific Radway at Maricopa, 
Ariz. The monument is well located to be viewed in connection with 
a trip over the great irrigation system of the Salt River VaUey, 
better known as the Roosevelt project of the Reclamation Service, 



38 

PETRIFIED FOREST NATIONAL MONUMENT. 

The Petrified Forest of Arizona lies in the area between the Little 
Colorado River and the Rio Puerco, 15 miles east of their junction, 
in Navajo and Apache Counties. It was originally established as 
a national monument by proclamation of December 8, 1906, and its 
boundaries were subsequently modified by proclamation of July 31, 
1911.^ This area is of great interest because of the abundance of 
petrified coniferous trees, as well as its scenic features. The trees lie 
scattered about in great profusion; none, however, stands erect in its 
original place of growth, as do many of the petrified trees in the Yel- 
lowstone National Park. The trees probably at one time grew beside 
an inland sea; after falling they became waterlogged, and during 
decomposition the cell structure of the wood was entirely replaced 
by sihca derived from sandstone in the surrounding land. Over a 
greater part of the entire area trees lie scattered in all conceivable 
positions and in fragments of all sizes. The localities where the pet- 
rified trees are found are known as the First Forest, Second Forest, 
and Rainbow Forest. 

The First Forest lies 6 miles south of Adamana, a station on the 
Santa Fe Pacific Railway. In this forest there are not as many large 
tree trimks as in the other forests, the chief object of interest and 
perhaps the most prominent of all the scenic features of the region 
being the well-known Natural Bridge, consisting of a great petrified 
tree trunk 60 feet long spanning a canyon 45 feet in width, and form- 
ing a footbridge over wiiich anyone may easily pass. The ends of 
the tree trunk are embedded in the surrounding sandstone, the canyon 
evidently having been formed after the tree had silicified. 

The Second Forest lies about 24 miles south of the First Forest 
and contains about 2,000 acres covered with fragments of petrified 
wood and tree trunks up to 4 feet in diameter. Th,e wood is all 
highly colored and beautiful specimens are in abundance. 

The third or Rainbow Forest lies about 13 miles south of Adamana 
and 18 miles southeast of Holbrook, Ariz., also on the Santa Fe Rail- 
way. In this forest the tree trunks are larger than elsewhere, more 
numerous, and less broken. There are in this vicinity several hun- 
dred whole trees, some of which are more than 200 feet long, partially 
embedded in the ground. The color of the wood is deeper and more 
striking than in the other localities. The main traveled road from 
Holbrook to St. Johns passes through this forest. 

The First and Second Forests are reached by team and wagon from 
Adamana. The Third Forest can be reached from Adamana, but it 
is a long drive and is seldom made; the better method is by either 
team or automobile from Holbrook. The roads to the First and 
Second Forests from Holbrook are too sandy for automobile travel 
and the distance is too great to make the trip comfortably by team. 

Prof. Lester F. Ward, of the Geological Survey, has stated that — 

There is no other petrified forest in which the wood assumes so many varied and 
interesting forms and colors, and it is these that present the chief attraction for the 
general public. The state of mineralization in which much of this wood exists almost 

1 In 1895 the Legislature of Arizona passed a memorial to Congress recommending the creation of the 
Petrified Forest National Park. Bills to establish such a park were introduced by Hon. John F. Lacey 
in the Fifty-sixth Congress on Mar. 16, 1900 (H. R. 9S34), in the Fifty-seventh Congress on Jan. 2, 1902 (H. R. 
8326), in the Fifty-eighth Congress on Nov. 13, 1903 (H. R. 2529), and in the Fifty-ninth Congress on Dec. 
18, 1905 (H. R. 8966). In each case the bill was promptly passed by the House but failed in the Senate. 
Finally the desired object was attained in 1906, shortly after the passage of the National Monuments act, 
when the forest was set aside as the fourth reservation under the new law. 



39 

places them among the gems or precious stones. Not only are chalcedony, opals, 
and agates found among them, but many approach the condition of jasper and onyx. 
The degree of hardness attained by them is such that they are said to make an excellent 
quality of emery. 

Dr. Walter Hough, of the Smithsonian Institution, who visited 
this monument, states that — 

In the celebrated Petrified Forest, which is some 18 miles from Holbrook, Ariz., 
on the picturesque Santa Fe Railroad, there are ruins of several ancient Indian vil- 

V777T Ffeservaf ion Boundary— — County Boundary,^ Collecting Grounds 




Petrified Forest National Monument, Ariz., embracing sees. 12, 11, and 12 and E. \ sees. 3 and 10; T. 16 
N., R. 23 E.; sees. 4 to 9 and W. i sees. 3 and 10, T. 1(5 N., R. 24 E.; sees. 34, 35, 36. T. 17 N., R. 23 E., 
sees. 3 to 10, 15 to 22, 27 to 33, and W. J sees. 2, 11, 14, 23, 26, T. 17 N., R. 24 E., Gila and Salt River merid- 
ian, containing 40.04 square miles, c'riginally created December 8, 1906, boundaries modified as above 
July 31, 1911. 



These \allages are small, in some cases ha\dng merely a few houses, but what 
gives them a peculiar interest is that they were built of logs of beautiful fossil wood. 
* * * The prehistoric dwellers of the land selected cylinders of uniform size, which 
were seemingly determined by the carrying strength of a man. It is probable that 

Erehistoric builders never chose more beautiful stones for the construction of their 
abitations than the trunks of the trees which flourished ages before man appeared 
on the earth. 

This wood agate also furnished material for stone hammers, arrowheads, and knives, 
which are often found in ruins hundreds of miles from the forest. 



9 

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Map sho^ving national parks and national monuments in the continental United States. There are two national i 

park in Ha 
84490°— 17. (Pages 40-41.) 




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n Alaska— the Sitka and Old Kasaan; one national park in Alaska— the Mount McKinley— and one national 



42 

Mr. Chester B. Campbell, custodian of the monument since January 
16, 1913, reports that while the general condition of the monument 
is good, the natural bridge has become badly cracked and requires 
support, which could best be effected by installing a steel beam ruii- 
ning the entire length of the bridge. Arrangements are now in 
progress for making this repair. 

PINNACLES NATIONAL MONUMENT. 

This national monument, created by proclamation of January 16, 
1908, embraces 2,091.21 acres of land in San Benito County, Cal., of 
which approximately 1,900 acres is under governmental control, a 
small portion having been patented to private ownership prior to 
creation of the monument. 

The name is derived from the spirelike formations arising from 
600 to 1,000 feet from the floor of the canyon, forming a landmark 



30 



31 



18 



20 



29 



32 



28 



17 



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Pinnacles National Monument, C"al.; embraces parts of Tps. 16 and 17 S., E. 7 E., M. D. M.; created January 

16, 1908. 

visible many miles in eveiy direction. Many of the rocks are so 
precipitous that they can not be scaled. A series of caves, opening 
one into the other, lie mider each of the groups of rock. These caves 
vary greatly in size, one in particular, known as the Banquet Hall, 
being about 100 feet square with a ceiling 30 feet high. The caves 
are entered through narrow canyons with perpendicular rock walls 
and overhanging bowlders. One huge stone, called the Temple Rock, 
is almost cubical in form. It stands alone in the bottom of the 
canyon and its walls rise perpendicularly to a height of over 200 
feet. Tliere are also several specimens of ''balancing rocks" in each 
of the groups. The pinnacles, domes, caves, and subterranean pas- 
sages of the monument are awe-inspiring on close inspection, and are 
well worth a visit by tourists and lovers of nature in its primitive 
state. 

Tliere are two groups of the so-called Pinnacles Rocks, knowni 
locally as the Big Pmnacles and the Little Pinnacles. The general 



43 

characteristics of the two groups are similar. Each covers an area 
of about 160 acres very iiTegular in outUne. There are springs of 
good water in what are known as the Chalone and Bear CrecK gorges. 
Tlie wild life on this reservation is protected by special State laws. 
In 1909 CaUfomia made the monument a State game perserve (ch. 
428) and more recently has defuied it as game and fish district No. 25 
(Laws, 1915, ch. 379), in which all hmitmg is prohibited. 

There are no stage lines to the monument. The best means of 
reachmg the monument are by private conveyance over private roads 
from either Soledad or Gonzales, m Monterey County, Cal., stations 
on the mam Ime of the Southern Pacific Railway distant, respec- 
tively, 12 and 14 miles; or from Holhster, in San Benito County (also 
on the Southern Pacific), distant 35 miles. There is a good public 
highway from Hollister to within about 6 miles of the monument. 



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Eainbow Bridge National Monument, Utah, embracing 160 acres of land in square form, the southeast 
corner of which bears from one himdred and seventy-ninth mile corner on the Utah and Arizona boundary 
N. 60° 25' 13" W. 7 miles 67.87 chains distant; created May 30, 1910. 

from which a private road runs through several ranches for about 
4 miles that is passable for automobiles. Between the end of the 
private road and the main gorge of the monument a road passable 
for teams leads up the bed of Chalone Creek. The route from Hol- 
lister is the most direct, as it leads to the east side of the pumacles, 
where the gorges and caves are easily accessible, while the routes from 
Soledad or Gonzales lead to the west side and necessitate a journey, 
either by foot or saddle horse, to the eastern side to reach the caves 
and gorges. 

RAINBOW BRIDGE NATIONAL MONUMENT. 

This natural bridge is located withm the Navajo Lidian Reserva- 
tion, near the southern boundary of Utah, a few miles northwest 
from Navajo Momitam, a well-known peak and landmark, and spans 



44 

a canyon and small stream wliioli drains the northwestern slopes of 
this peak, and is of great scientific interest as an example of eccentric 
stream erosion. Among the known extraordmary natural bridges of 
the world, this bridge is miique m that it is not only a symmetrical 
arch below but presents also a curved surface above, thus presenting, 
roughly, the character of the rainbow, for which it is named. Its 
height above the surface of the water is 309 feet and its span is 278 
feet. 

The existence of this natural wonder was first disclosed to William 
B. Douglass, an examuier of surveys of the General Land Office, on 
August 14, 1909, by a Piute Indian, called "Mike's boy," later 
''Jim," who was employed in comiection with the survey of the 
natural bridges in White Canyon, Utah. 

The best and easiest way in which to reach the Rainbow Bridge 
National Monument is to outfit at Monticello, thence travel to the 
Natural Bridges Monument, thence south and west down the Grand 
Gulch and the San Juan River, In order to reach Monticello tourists 
should leave the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad at Thompsons, 
Utah. This will necessitate travel by team and pack outfit of 220 
miles, approximately. While this may seem a very long trip, yet 
the scenery, cliff dwellings, prehistoric caves, vast canyons, etc., 
located between the Natural Bridges and the Rainbow Bridge Monu- 
ment are worth the labor, time, and money expended in visiting them. 

SIEUR DE MONTS NATIONAL MONUMENT. 

This reservation, approximately 5,000 acres in extent, was con- 
stituted by presidential proclamation dated July 8, 1916, from lands 
donated to the Govermnent by the owners, the Hancock County 
Trustees of Pubhc Reservations, represented in the transaction by 
Mr, George B, Dorr, who has since been appointed custodian of the 
monument. The deed of gift conveying tliis tract was without 
restriction other than the stipulation that a national monument 
should be estabhshed thereon. At request of the donors the name 
Sieur de Monts National Monument was given. 

Tliis tract embraces the summit of Moimt Desert Island, Me., and 
about 5,000 acres of contiguous territory, rugged, partly wooded, 
and picturesque in the extreme; and is of great scientific interest in 
that its lofty summits, gorges, and drainage areas show in enduring 
granite the marks of the glacial trowel. Its fauna and flora are also 
of exceptional scientific interest and importance. The gift was made 
not alone for the purpose of preserving these features for pubhc use 
and enjoyment, but to commemorate the discovery of Mount Desert 
Island by Samuel de Champlain, who, as the trusted heutenant of 
Sieur de Monts,^ first landed on this island while exploring the present 
Maine coast in September, 1604, 

The monument can readily be reached from Bar Harbor, Me., 
or other coast resorts upon Mount Desert Island, 

1 Pierre de Guast, Sieur de Monts, 15G0-1611, the patron of Champlain, was governor of Pons, France, 
and was commissioned by Henry IV of France to explore and cstalilish coloiiiivs in America. He was 
in command of the expedition of 1604 and was at St. Croix when Charaplain made his trip along the 
Maine coast and discovered Mount Desert Island. 



45 



SITKA NATIONAL MONUMENT, ALASKA. 

This monument reservation, created March 23, 1910, under the act 
of June 8, 1906, embraces about 57 acres of comparatively level gravel 
plain formed by sea wash and by the deposits of Indian River, 
which flows through the tract, and is situated about a mile from the 
steamboat landing at Sitka. Upon this ground was located for- 
merly the village of a warhke tribe — the Kik-Siti Indians — ^who, in 
1802, massacred the Russians in old Sitka and thereafter fortified 
themselves and defended their village against the Russians mider 
Baranoff and Lisianski. Here, also, are the graves of a Russian 



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Monument 8ounda/y 




; ZJ ■ 74 1 73 •^S 



Sieur de Monts National Monument, Mount Desert Island, Maine. 

midshipman and six sailors who were killed in a decisive battle in 
1804. A celebrated *■' witch tree" of the natives and 16 totem poles, 
several of which are examples of the best work of the savage gene- 
alogists of the Alaska clans, stand sentrylike along the beach. 

The following is from a letter dated August 31, 1913, from Arthur 
G. Shoup, member of Alaskan Legislature, to J. W. Lewis, special 
agent. General Land Office, and now part of General Land Office 
files: 

The great natural beauty of tliis park is extolled by every tourist -vrho. has ever 
^dsited Sitka, and it is partly on account of the exceptional opportunities that it 
affords for visitors from the States to see at once the timber growth, wild mosses and 
small verdure, and mountain streams of Alaska that our Government has so carefully 
guarded this reservation. 



46 

Referring briefly to the historical features of the Sitka National Monument, or 
Indian River Park, as it is called: It was here that the Russians under Baranoff 
in 1802 fought and won the ' 'decisive battle of Alaska " against the Indians and effected 
their lodgment in southeastern Alaska that placated the then very active attempts 
of Great Britain to get possession of this part of the country. The Russian title thus 
acquired to the Alexander Archipelago was later transferred to the United States, and 
because of this battle ground being in the Sitka National Moniunent it is of great 
patriotic interest to every Alaskan. 

Another interesting feature of this park is that it is the place where the natives 
used to conduct their weird trials and executions for witchcraft. The tree where 
the victims were hanged still stands as an object of awe to the descendants of the old 
Bchamen and a subject of ciuiosity to the whites. 




Sitka National Monument, Alaska, embracing a tract of land which includes the mouth of Indian River 
and adjacent territory near Sitka; created March 23, 1910. 

Estimate in. amount $1,000 was submitted by the governor of 
Alaska (as part of estimates for the fiscal year ending June 30, 1917, 
for administration of tliat Territory) for protection and preserva- 
tion of the Sitka National Monument, including repair of the ancient 
totems and other historic relics, but failed to receive favorable consid- 
eration. However, considerable work has been done in the monument 
by the Alaska Road Commission, so that the roads in the tract are 
in very good condition for both wagon and pedestrian travel. The 
commission has constructed also a footbridge across Indian River 
at an outlay of $2,500. 



47 



Much work remains to be done in the way of repairs to totems and 
clearing of foot trails. Practically all the totems need repairing 
to some extent and all are in need of painting, 

SHOSHONE CAVERN NATIONAL MONUMENT. 

The Shoshone Cavern National Monument embraces 210 acres of 
rough mountainous land lying about 3 miles east of the great Sho- 




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Shoshone Cavern National Monument, Wye, embracing tlie SW. } SE. i; W. 4 SE. \ SE. J; SW. 4 
NE.iSE.i; S. 4NW. i SE.i; and SE. i. SW. J, sec. 5; tlie NW. i NE. J and NE. J NW. Jsec. 8, 
T. 52 N., R. 102 W., sixth principal meridian; created September 21, 1909. 

shone Dam, m Big Horn County, Wyo. It was created by presi- 
dential proclamation of September 21, 1909. The cavern entrance is 
located at the summit of a reef of rocks at the head of a canyon upon 
the north face of Cedar Momitain, about 4 miles southwesterly from 
Cody, Wyo., on the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy Railway. The 



48 

ascent to the entrance from the foot of the mountain is somewhat 
arduous. From the entrance the cavern runs m a southwesterly 
direction for more than 800 feet if measured in a direct line. 

The best method of reaching the entrance is by means of the canyon 
leading from the foot of Cedar Mountain to the southwest of Cody 
on the east side of that mountain and which descends its eastern 
slope. It is possible to go by automobile or team to the foot of the 
mountain, a distance of about 2 miles from Cody, and then by a 
graded road about one-third of the way up the mountam. From 
the end of this road it is possible to go by foot or on horseback to 
within 100 feet of the entrance of the cave. 

Entering the cave one proceeds for some distance, possibly 500 
feet, where it is necessary to descend a steep, rocky wall by means of 
a rope. Continuing, another declivity is encountered, and it is nec- 
essary to descend by rope about 30 feet. Advancing farther, possibly 
3,000 to 4,000 feet, room after room is encountered, some of which 
are at least 150 feet in length and 40 or 50 feet in height. Some of 
these rooms, especially in the extreme interior, are beautifully in- 
ci-usted with limestone crystals. Here and there as one proceeds 
through the accessible part of th^ cave can be seen small openings, 
evidently leading into larger openings, but which as yet have not 
been explored. 

The passages leading through the cavern are very intricate, and 
twist, turn, double back, and descend in other rooms, so that the trip 
through the cave should not be attempted without a competent guide, 
with supply of ropes, and lamps. Guides can be employed in Cody. 

TUMACACORI NATIONAL MONUMENT. 

This -monument embraces 10 acres of land in Santa Cruz County, 
Ariz., about 57 miles south of Tucson and 17 miles north of Nogales, 
relinquished to the United States by homestead entryman for the 
purposes specified in the act of June 8, 1906. Upon the tract is 
located a very ancient Spanish mission ruin, dating it is thought from 
the latter part of the seventeenth century, built by Jesuit priests from 
Spain and operated by them for nearly a hundred years. The most 
authentic information is that this mission, knowTi as the Mission 
San Jose de Tumacacori, was founded by the Jesuit priest, missionary, 
and explorer, Father Eusebio Francisco Kino, between the years 
1687 and 1690. 

After the year 1769 priests belonging to the order of Franciscan 
Fathers took charge of the mission and repaired its crumbling walls, 
maintaining peaceable possession thereof for about 60 years. In the 
early part of the nineteenth century the mission was attacked by 
Apache Indians, who drove the priests away and disbanded the 
peaceable Papago Indians residing in the vicinity of the mission. 
When found by the Americans, about the year 1850, the mission was 
in a condition of ruin. 

The ruins as they stand consist of the walls and tower of an old 
church building, the walls of a mortuary chamber at the north end 
of the church building, and a court or churchyard, surrounded by 
an adobe wall 2 J feet thick and 6 feet high. 

The walls of the church building are 6 feet thick, built of adobe 
and plastered both inside and outside with lime mortar 1 inch thick. 
The inside walls of the main church building received two coats of 



49 

this plaster, a first or inner coat being of a rather coarse character and 
the finishing coat being of a very fine, hard, and lasting character. 
The dome over the altar and the belfry tower are constructed of 
burned brick, this being one of the characteristics of the architecture 
of the mission, in which respect the construction differs from other 
early Spanish missions. Inside, the dunensions of the church are 18 
feet wide by 75 feet in length. The part used for the altar is situated 
at the north end. It is 18 feet square, surmounted with a circular 
dome, finished on the inside with white plaster decorated or frescoed 
in colors. The plaster and decorations are in a good state of preser- 
vation, but the altar is entirely gone. On the east of the altar room 
there is a sanctuary chamber, 16 by 20 feet, 20 feet high, covered with 
a circular roof built of burned brick, supported in the center by an 
arch. This is the only part of the mission which is now roofed over. 
In the south end of the church there was an arched partition which 
formed a vestibule. This partition has been removed. The outside 
wall of the north end of the church building is decorated with white 
plaster studded at regular intervals with clusters made of fragments 
of broken slag and broken brick. ^ 

About 25 feet nortli of the church building, and in the center of 
the churchyard, there is a circular mortuary chamber. The wall is 
3 J feet thick by 16 feet high, built of ^adobe, surmounted on the top 
with a row of ornamental cornice brick (made of burned brick). 
The chamber has one entrance. The walls were originally decorated 
on the outside with white plaster studded with fragments of red 
brick. 

The entrance to the church is at the south and has an arched door- 
way. The arch has partially broken out and the waU above thereby 
weakened. To the east of the entrance there is a room, about 18 feet 
square, with a wmding stairway inside leading up to the belfry. 
The stairs, however, are gone, only the adobe walls on which the 
stairs were built being left. Access to the belfry is gained by means 
of this old stair^vay. This room is surmounted with the belfry 
tower, which is constructed of burned brick. The walls supporting 
the tower are adobe, and are rapidly wearing away. The support 
under the southwest corner of the belfry is now gone, and the brick- 
work is overhanging with no support and liable to fall at any time. 
Through action of the elements the church, appurtenant buildings, 
and inclosing walls are in a very bad state of ruin, most of the roofs 
havmg long since fallen in and portions of the main building having 
become undermined. No preservative or restorative measures have 
been taken, and until funds become available therefor much further 
deterioration is to be expected. 

The plaster originaUy applied to the walls of the church building 
was of excellent quahty, and where imbroken seems to be of almost 
imperishable character, but in many places it has been broken off 
and carried away, presumably for grinding up and reuse by imauthor- 
ized parties. Where the plaster has not been broken the walls are 
m good condition, but wherever removed rapid disintegration of 
the walls has resulted. 

With exception of a narrow strip of land along the west bomidary 
of this monument, the entire area hes within the private land claim 
Luis Maria Baca Float No. 3, which was confirmed to the heirs by 



50 

the Supreme Court of the United States on November 2, 1914. The 
mission is therefore on land the ownership of which is not in the 
Federal Government. Effort has been made during the past year 
by the department to secure conveyance to the Government of the 
land belonging to the heirs within the limits of the monument, but 
so far without result. Until title to this land can be vested in the 
Federal Government, no expenditure can be made by the depart- 
ment toward restoration or protection of the mission. It is alto- 
gether hkely, in view of the precarious condition of the principal 



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NATIONAL 

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MONUMENT 



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Tumacacori National Monument, Ariz., embracing the E. l, NW. \ SW. \ SE. } and the W. \ 
NE. i SW. \ SE. i, sec. 30, T. 21 S., R. 13 E., Gila and Salt'River meridian; created September 
15, 1908. 

portions of the mission, that its damage beyond repair will take 
place before protective measures can be applied. 

The State highway between Tucson and Nogales passes the mis- 
sion and is a good automobile road. The Tucson-Nogales branch 
of the Southern Pacific Railway passes within a mile of the mission, 
the nearest railroad station being Tubac, 3 miles to the north. From 
Tubac the monument can be reached on foot. 

The best means of travel for the public in reaching the monument is 
by auto mail hack which leaves Nogales, Ariz., every morning except 
Monday, arriving at the ruin at 10 a. m., and leaving by the same 
automobile for Nogales at 5.30 p. m. The round trip fare is $1.50. 



51 



NATIONAL MONUMENTS ADMINISTERED BY THE DEPART- 
MENT OF AGRICULTURE. 

BANDELIER NATIONAL MONUMENT. 

This national monument, named in honor of the distinguished 
archaeologist, the late Adolph Francis Alphonse Bandelier (1840- 




T 19 N. 



T. 18 N. 



T. 17 N. 



R.5E. R.6E. R.7E. 

Bandelier National Monument within ihe Santa Fe National Forest, N. Mex., created February 11, 1916. 

1914), was created by proclamation dated February 11, 1916, and 
embraces approximately 22,075 acres of land within the Santa Fe 
National Forest, N. Mex. The nearest town is Buckman, on the 
Denver & Rio Grande Railroad, 18 miles from Santa Fe, N. Mex. The 
monument can readily be reached by automobile from Santa Fe, 
while a wagon road leads to it from Buckman. 



Throughout the entire area prehistoric ruins of all kinds occur in 
vast numbers. On the sides oi many of the canyons are found cliff 
dwellings, carved out of the soft tufa cliffs, and upon the mesa tops 
and in the valleys are numerous ruins of the many chambered com- 
munity houses or pueblos, ranging from those of one or two rooms to 
large pueblos having over a hundred rooms. In addition to ruins of 
this sort, of which there are a great many, there are several artificial 
caves of special interest, and also the remains of two remarkable 
images, known as the Stone Lions, each measuring about 7 feet in 
length, which are considered by many authorities as being the most 
important specimens of aboriginal sculpture in the United States. 
Considerable research work has been carried on among these ruins 
by the American School of Archseology, supported by the Archseo- 
logical Institute of America, and also by the Bureau of American 
Ethnology of the Smithsonian Institution. Bulletin 32 of the Bureau 
of American Ethnology gives in detail the results of an investigation 
by a representative of the bureau. 

DEVIL POSTPILE NATIONAL MONUMENT. 

This national monument was created by proclamation of July 6, 
1911, and is located in the high Sierras a few miles west of the main 
crest of the range in the northeastern end of Madera County, in the 
Sierra National Forest. 

The Devil Postpile consists of a spectacular mass of hexagonal 
basaltic rock columns, about 2 feet each in diameter and varying up 
to 50 feet in height, which are exposed on one side on the face of 
a nearly perpendicular cliff. These are laid down in the form of an 
immense pile of posts, and w^hile there are similar formations in 
different parts of the country this is especially prominent, being one 
of the most noted of its kind on the continent, and said to rank with 
the famous Giants Causeway on the coast of Antrim, in the north of 
Ireland. A mile or so below the Postpile and within the limits of 
the national monument is a beautiful waterfall, known as Rainbow 
Fall, in the chasm of the upper Middle Fork of the San Joaquin 
River. The faU, while not so high, resembles in appearance the 
Vernal Falls of the Merced River in Yosemite National Park, and is 
one of the few of its kind on the continent. 

Within the national monument there is also a picturesque meadow, 
which affords a fine camp site for travelers and from wliich the Post- 
pile is in sight, while in the edge of the river near this meadow is a 
hot sulphur spring, which lends much interest to the locality. 

The national monument is surromided by some of the grandest 
scenery of the Sierra Nevada Range, while forests of fir, lodge pole 
and mountain pine clothe the surrounding slopes. Its beauties and 
wonders will weU repay the difficulties which are imposed upon the 
trip by the remoteness and relative inaccessibility or its location. 

The Devil Postpile National Monument is most easily reached over 
the crest of the range from the east. From Laws, on the Southern 
Pacific, there is an automobile stage through Bishop to Mammoth, 
which lies at the foot of the range, and from Mammoth animals can 
be engaged for the trip by trail which takes ordy half a day over 
Mammoth Pass to the national monument. The latter can also be 
reached from Fresno, in the San Joaquin Valley on the west, either 



53 

by automobile stage to Northfork, Madera County, thence by a sec- 
ondary road, passable for automobiles for some 10 miles farther, 
some 30 miles to Granite Creek, near the junction of the forks of the 
San Joaquin Eiver, and from thence by trail only some 25 miles ad- 
ditional, or by the Southern Pacific and the San Joaquin & Eastern 
Railroads from Fresno to Cascada (or Big Creek, as the post office 
is called), where animals can be hired for the trip by trail over 
Kaiser Pass, or around the western flank of the Kaiser Ridge, about 
a two days' trip each way. 



NATIONAL MONUMENT BOUNOARV 




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Thence C *0 ch, 

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Thence If *0 chains * Comer Ne I, 

afaee of beyinniny, confoinm^ ofiprotimcrfe // 

SOOAeras 



Devil Postpile National Monument, within the Sierra National Forest, Cal., created July 6, 1911. 
GILA CLIFF-DWELLINGS NATIONAL MONUMENT. 

The Gila Cliff-Dwellings National Monument was created by proc- 
lamation dated November 16, 1907. These cliff-dweller ruins are 
neither very large nor very important, but are located in a district 
in which few prehistoric ruins are found. 

The ruins are situated approximately 50 miles northwest of Silver 
City, N. Mex., and about 4 miles northwest of the Gila Hot Springs. 
The best way to reach them is by wagon and trail from Silver City 
via Piiios Altos. 

The ruins are located in the mouth of a deep, rough canyon, known 
as the Cliff Dwellers Canyon, flowuig into the West Fork of the Gila 



54 

River from the south. They occupy four natural cavities in the base 
of an overhanging cUff, which is about 150 feet high, and composed 
of a grayish yellow volcanic rock. 

The largest cavity is nearly circular and about 50 feet in diameter. 
The arched rock forming the roof is about 10 feet above the center 
of the floor. In one corner is a small room 6 by 8 feet built of rock 
and adobe and provided with a small entrance window. Natural 
archways lead into two smaller tributary cavities. These are divided 
into a number of small rooms by walls built of adobe and small stones 
which are in such a good state of preservation that finger imprints 
made in the adobe when the walls were built can still be plainly seen. 
Above the small doorways and windows, pieces of timber were used 
which are perfectly preserved. In some of the higher walls holes can 



CLIFF 
DWELLINGS 



SecJ27 
I 

I 



Gila Clifl-Dwellings National Monument, within the Gila National Forest, N. Mex., embracing NE. J of 
sec. 27, T. 12 S., R. 14 W., New Mexico meridian; created November 16, 1907. 

be seen where timbers, which undoubtedly formed the joists for a 
second story, have been burned out. 

A fourth cavity, separate from the others, contains the walls of 
small rooms in a good state of preservation. There is still another 
cavity, high on the face of the cliff, which has never been explored. 
As the cliff overhangs it is impossible to enter it by means of sus- 
pended ropes. It can be entered only by means of a ladder. 

Part of the outer wall, which at one time evidently closed the open- 
ings into these cavities, is still partially preserved. The remainder 
shows that it was intended for defensive purposes, as small windows 
are the only openings. 

When these cliff dwellings were first discovered by prospectors and 
hunters in the early seventies a number of relics in the shape of 
sandals, baskets, water vessels, cooking utensils, spears, etc., were 
found. Corncobs can stiU be found in numbers. Some of the walls 
have been destroyed by vandals. - 



55 

A mummy was found here a number of years ago which eventually 
was placed in the Smithsonian Institution. Another mummy, found 
in 1912, also was forwarded to the Smithsonian Institution: 

GRAND CANYON NATIONAL MONUMENT. 

A considerable portion of the area set aside by the proclamation 
creating this national monument is covered by three different procla- 
mations, one of which created the Grand Canyon Forest Reserve, one 
the game preserve embracing that part of the national forest north 
of the river, and the third the monument proclamation. The monu- 
ment now comprises a tract of 806,400 acres lying within the Tusayan 
and Kaibab National Forests, and is partly coextensive with the 
Grand Canyon Game Preserve. It is believed that the most wonder- 
ful portion of the canyon is contained within the present hmits of 
the national monument and game preserves. 

The Grand Canyon of the Colorado was discovered in the year 
1540 by Don Garcia Lopez de Cardenas, a captain under Coronado. 
The pioneer work in its scientific exploration was done between the 
years 1869 and 1882 by the late Maj. John Wesley PoweU, United 
States Army, and formerly Director of the United States Geological 
Survey.^ In 1902 it became accessible by railroad and is now visited 
by 100,000 people each year. 

All experienced travelers, with one accord, have given the Grand 
Canyon a high place among the great wonders of the world. It con- 
sists of a mile-deep gorge cut through a hundred miles of high for- 
ested plateau, and is principally remarkable for its brilliant and 
variegated color effects and the extraordinary sculpturing of its 
interior by ages of erosive action. The lateral canyons contain many 
cUff dwellings. While the main canyon is more than 10 miles wide 
at all points, the river itself runs through an inner chasm of solid 
granite and contains many rapids which have claimed a number of 
Eves and have not been often successfully navigated. A cable ferry 
crosses the river at one point. 

That part of the Grand Canyon National Monument south of the 
river, which is the part most often visited, is administered by the 
United States Forest Service as part of the Tusayan National Forest. 
The forest supeiwisor's headquarters is at Williams, Ariz., and the 
local forest ranger is stationed at Rowe WeU, 3^ miles southwest of 
the railroad terminal. To preserve the scenic value of points along 
the rim, especially thorough protection is provided against forest 
fires. 

The easiest way to reach the Grand Canyon is by way of the Santa 
Fe Railway, which maintains a branch line extending from its main 
transcontinental line at WilUams, Ariz., to the south rim of the 
canyon itself. At this point first-class hotel facilities and livery 
service are afforded, while excellent roads and trails lead into the 
canyon and to points along the rim in either direction. 

Transcontinental motorists are also visiting the canyon in increas- 
ing numbers. Good branch roads lead to the canyon from the main 
ocean-to-ocean highway. 

' A monument to commemorate the work of Maj. Powell has been recently erected on the south brink of 
the canyon not far from the El Tovar Hotel. (For photograph see Am. Forestry, vol. 22, p. 205, April, 1916.) 



56 

Under the protection given by the Forest Service, under the au- 
thority of the proclamation establisliing the Grand Canyon National 
Game Preserve, game animals have steadily increased. The pre- 
serve is now estimated to contain 10,000 head of blacktail deer and 



NATIONAL MONUMENT BOUNDARY 
NATIONAL FOREST BOUNDARY 



litr L-^^-J liiL-l.Jir^^.J UTAH 






s- 5 rf ~ii./ss - - „j/„r/^_Jf ■"'"! T49N. 



mi 



■~\T37t*> 




lAA.XAAAJ,A,xAA,AAA,i,A.A-\-\ 1,A,..1'\y\,X-1,Xm. t?7h 



E^SE. R«e. 



Grand Canron National Monument, within the Grand Canyon National Forest, Ariz.; created January 

11, 1908. 

a large number of bighorn or mountain sheep. Mountain lions and 

other predatory animals are systematically destroyed by forest officers. 

Steps have been taken to create a national park of the Grand Canyon 

of the Arizona, and a bill (H. R. 6331) providing for such purpose 



57 



was introduced in the Sixty-second Congress April 20, 1911. The 
bill, however, did not become a law. In the Sixty-fourth Congress 
similar bills (H. R. 20447 and S. 8250) were introduced, and in the 
Sixty-fifth Congress S. 390 will be given consideration. 

JEWEL CAVE NATIONAL MONUMENT. 

Jewel Cave National Monument was created by proclamation dated 
February 7, 1908. 

Jewel Cave, wliich is located 13 miles west and south of Custer, the 
county seat of Custer County, S. Dak., was discovered on August 18, 




. Mouse 

'ill Spr-i/iff^, 

Jewel (^ave 



Sec. 3. 



± 



^ 3ec. 2 
J^T'xiiJ^ie l?o 



Jewel Cave National Monument, within the Black Hills National Forest, S. Dak., Tps. 3 and 4 S., R ^2 E. 
Black Hills meridian; created February 7, 1908. 

1900, by two prospectors, Albert and F. W. Michaud, whose attention 
was attracted by the noise of wind coming from a small hole in the 
limestone cliffs on the east side of Hell Canyon. In the hope of dis- 
covering some valuable minerals and the source of the wind, these 
men, in company with one Charles Bush, enlarged the openmg. 

The cave, as far as known, is located in Hmestone formation and is 
apparently the result of action of water. A prominent geologist who 



58 

visited this cave believes it to be an extinct geyser channel. The 
main passage has been explored a distance of over 3 miles, although 
it has been opened up for visitors only 1^ miles, a short distance 
beyond Milk Eiver, which is a stream flowing through a white lime- 
stone, which gives the water the appearance of milk. 

The hmits of the main passage and side galleries are as yet un- 
known. Explorations have been carried in a northerly direction and 
vertically 100 feet below the entrance. 

On either side of the main passage are side galleries and chambers 
of various sizes. The first chamber, or gallery, is hthographic Ume- 
stone and resembles the Gothic style of architecture. About 500 feet 
from the entrance, the walls and roofs of a number of the chambers 
are lined with a thick crystalline calcite and the floor is of calcite and 
manganese. 

Within the different chambers one may see different colored chert. 
It varies in color, some having a pecuhar light-green tint, also dark 
green and bronze. The surface of the rock is smooth and should 
take a high pohsh. 

The chambers are connected with narrow passages generally, 
although wide passages are sometimes found. The narrow passages 
are very picturesque. The "box work" or honeycomb crystalliza- 
tion is very attractive. The color ranges from a hght brown to a 
deep chocolate shade, and the boxlike cavities, covered with minute 
crystals, stand in rehef from the ground mass. 

Geodes of various size and shape are found in the walls and pas- 
sageways, galleries, and chambers. The brilliancy of some of these 
cavities is very beautiful. 

The explorers have been careful observers of the action of the wind 
within the cave. They have discovered that ordinarily the wind 
blows in and out of the cave for regular periods of 15 hours each, 
although they have known the periods to be of 72 hours' duration. 
Other wind passages have been discovered in the vicinity of the cave. 

The cave is a wonderful creation of nature and worthy of many 
hours of study. As yet it has not been robbed of its beautiful 
specimens. A good automobile road leads to the cave from Custer, 
about 12 mUes distant. Good spring water is plentiful near the cave. 

MOUNT OLYMPUS NATIONAL MONUMENT. 

This monument as originally set aside bv presidential proclamation 
of March 2, 1909, contained approximately 608,640 acres of land in 
the Olympic Mountains in northwestern Washington. It was 
created for the purpose of preserving many objects of great and 
unusual scientific mterest, embracing nmnerous glaciers, and the 
territory has also been from time unmemorial the summer range and 
breeding ground of the Olympic elk, a species which is rapidly de- 
creasing in numbers. These elk have been protected by special 
State laws, which prohibit kOling them at any season for about 10 
years, and now that their summer range is protected they are begin- 
ning to increase. In fact, whUe it is unpossible to say how many 
elk are now found withm the monument, it is probably safe to estimate 
the number in the whole Olympic region at double what it was in 
1905, when the season was first closed and when the total number 
was estimated at 2,000, 



59 

Bills were introduced in the Sixty-second Congress on July 15, 
1911, and February 13, 1912, providing for establishment as a 
national park the same tract of land as was set aside by proclamation 
of the President creating the Mount Olympus National Monument. 
These measures failed to pass, and in the Sixty-fourth Congress similar 
bills (S. 3488 and H. R. 6864) were again introduced m 1916. 

The reservation was reduced by presidential proclamation of April 
17, 1912, to 608,480 acres in order to permit certain claimants to 
land therein to secure title to the land. By proclamation of May 11, 
1915, the monument was further reduced, and the lands eluuinated 
thereby made part of the Olympic National Forest, in order to permit 
of their development, the area eliminated not being essential to the 
purposes for which the monument was originally established. The 
present area of the monument is 299,370 acres. The proclamation 
of May 11, 1915, reads: 

I, Woodrow Wilson, President of the United States of America, by virtue of 
the power in me vested by section 2 of the act entitled, "An act for the preserva- 
tion of American antiquities," approved June 8, 1906 (34 Stat., 225), do hereby 
proclaim that the boundaries of the Mount Olympus National Monument as fixed 
and defined by proclamation of March 2, 1909 (35 Stat., 2247), and as modified by 
proclamation of April 17, 1912 (37 Stat., 1737), are hereby further modified and estab- 
lished as shown on the diagram forming a part hereof, and said national monument 
as so modified and established shall be administered in accordance with the afore- 
said proclamation of March 2, 1909. 

It is not intended that the lands eliminated from the Mount Olympus National 
Monument by this proclamation shall be eliminated from the Olympic National 
Forest, as established by proclamation of March 2, 1907 (34 Stat., 3306), but such 
lands shall continue subject to the reservation for forest purposes therein made. 

In witness whereof 1 have hereunto set my hand and caused the seal of the United 
States to be affixed. 

Done at the city of Washington this 11th day of May in the year of our 

[seal.] Lord one thousand nine hundred and fifteen, and of the independence 
of the United States the one hundred and thirty-ninth. 

There are a number of different routes by which the Mount 
Olympus National Monmnent may be reached, all of which require 
some travel by trail. The most convenient and quickest route, 
though not the shortest in point of miles, by which a most excellent 
view can be had of Mount Olympus and scenic surroundings — about 
6 miles air line — is by way of Port Angeles and the Sol Due Hot 
Sprmgs, as foUows: Leave Seattle on a Puget Sound steamer about 
midnight, arriving in Port Angeles about 7 the following morning. 
Take automobile stage for Sol Due Hot Springs, 45 miles, arriving 
about noon. Monument boundary about 2 mites by trail up river, 
but close view of Mount Olympus not possible until Sol-Duc-Hoh 
divide is reached, about 11 miles by trail from Sol Due Hotel. 

Another route, and the most practicable in case a trip through the 
monument from north to south is desired, is by way of Port Angeles 
and the Elwha and Queniult, coming out by way of Queniult Lake 
and Hoquiam. From Port Angeles to the Elwha River bridge on 
the Lake Crescent road is a little under 11 miles, the morning stage 
reaching that point about 9.30 a. m. Horse or foot travel must then 
be resorted to over a mountain trail of more than ordinary steep 
pitches, exasperating ups and downs, and, on the Queniult side, some 
very narrow and rather dangerous grades for a total through distance 
to Queniult Lake of about 70 miles. A side trip to the Elwha- 
Queets divide at the base of Mount Olympus would add 12 miles 



60 

more. Other trail routes approach close to portions of the monu- 
ment, but do not lead through or into the highest and most scenic 
interior, such travel being possible only on foot and by merely picking 
one's way along rough snowcapped ridges or through creek bottoms, 




Mount Olympus National Monument, within the OljTnpic National Forest, Wash., originally created 
March 2, 1909; boundaries modified as above May 11, 1915. 

along elk trails, etc. The two best trails from the east, or Hoods 
Canal, side are up the Dosewallips River and the North Fork of 
Skokomish River. The Dosewallips route is accessible from Seattle 
as follows: Take steamship Potlatch from Seattle at 9 a. m,, reaching 



61 

Brinnon about 2 p. m. A wagon road extends up the Dosewallips 
River 7 miles from Brinnon, and a quite satisfactory horse traU con- 
tinues to Sulphur Springs, 13 miles farther, which lands one within 
5 or 6 miles of the monument boundary. Travel beyond that point 
is only possible on foot and with considerable personal exertion and 
rough going. At least 30 miles of very rough travel would be neces- 
sary to reach Mount Olympus, the highest point, 8,200 feet. 

The North Fork Skokomish route may be reached from Seattle as 
follows: Take steamship Potlatch from Seattle at 9 a. m., arriving at 
Hoodsport about 4.30 p. m. Automobile stage to Lake Cushman, 9 
miles, same evening. A fair horse trail from the hotels at that point 
reaches the head of the river a few miles inside the monument boun- 
dary, a distance of nearly 20 miles, from which point an excellent 
view may be had of the Mount Anderson country. Cross-country 
travel to Mount Olympus is, however, impossible from this point, 
excepting on foot and with unusually careml and tedious mountain 
climbing. 

The only feasible route from the west side is up the Hoh River 
over a horse trail, which is quite satisfactor};^ in dry weather, extend- 
ing 40 miles from the settlement of Forks. Forks is reached by 
automobile road from Port Angeles and from ClaUam Bay, being 
about 62 miles from the former and about 30 from the latter. The 
horse trail on the upper Hoh ends at 4 or 5 miles inside the monument 
and perhaps 10 miles by a rough and somewhat dangerous foot-travel 
route from the top of Mount Olympus. 

OLD KASAAN NATIONAL MONUMENT. 

This national monument, created by proclamation dated October 
25, 1916, embraces 38.3 acres of land on the east coast of Prince of 
Wales Island and on the northerly shore of Skowl Arm of Clarence 
Strait, Alaska, located within the Tongass National Forest. It is 
situated about 30 miles distant from Ketchikan, Alaska, in approxi- 
mately longitude 132° 23' 30" W. and latitude 55° 25' 30" N., and 
covers the abandoned Indian village called "Old Kasaan," formerly 
occupied by the Hydah tribe of Alaskan natives. 

The monument is readily reached by small boat from Ketchikan, 
and the regular excursion steamers from Seattle to southeastern 
Alaska frequently put in at Old Kasaan as an accommodation to 
tourist travel. 

Within the monument are 50 totem poles, and 8 commmiity houses, 
the latter of which are falhng into disrepair, as the village has been 
abandoned by the natives for the past 10 years. Prior to its aban- 
domnent it had been occupied by the Hydahs for a great many years. 
The location is in one of the most beautiful spots in southern Alaska. 

About 30 of the totem poles are in the village, the others being in 
a group about 500 feet westerly of the village. In the westerly por- 
tion of the village are six graves with monuments and small grave 
houses. Six others are situated in the easterly portion, of the village. 
The co mm unity houses are rectangular buildings, the largest bemg 
40 by 60 feet, made entirely from round, split, and carved timbers. 
The interior of these buildings is all in one room, in the center of 
which, in the larger buildings, is a two-decked pit, the inner pit being 



62 

about 24 feet square. This pit is lined on each side by a cedar plank 
6 inches thick and 2 feet high, the floor of the upper deck being 3 feet 
wide and the outer sides being lined with 6-inch plank 24 inches high, 
similar to the inner pit. In the center of this pit is a graveled fire- 
place, 8 by 10 feet. Above this fireplace there is a hole in the roof for 
the escape of the smoke. Around the outside of the pit there is a 
floor space anywhere from 4 to 10 feet in width, depending upon the 



I 



<^/////'//////////////////////////////////////////////, 




■5 e -5 



,0<M>^ W 




size of the buildmg. On this floor space is found a number of sleeping 
booths consistmg merely of boxes made of split cedar about the size 
of a piano box, on one side of which there is a horizontal opening for 
entrance. These pits were arranged for the accommodation of the 
occupants of the houses, in each of which always Lived a large num- 
ber of families. 

The community houses are peculiarly iUustrative of the architec- 
ture of the Alaskan native. 



63 



OREGON CAVES NATIONAL MONUMENT. 

The Oregon Caves National Monument was created by proclama- 
tion of July 12, 1909. 

The Oregon Caves, or "Marble Halls," of Josephine County, dis- 
covered by Elija Davidson in 1874, are located in the Siskiyou 



NATIONAL MONUMENT BOUNDARY,^; 




kvr^ao^ch 




9 Entrance fo Cayej 









ti \^'\,,\\S"li\\^ 



)% 



Variation /S'^^'E. 

Oregon Caves National Monument, within the Siskiyou National Forest, Greg., created July 12, 1909. 

National Forest about 30 miles south of Grants Pass in Cave Mountain, 
a peak of the Greyback Range that divides the headwaters of the 
Applegate and Illinois Rivers and connects with the Siskiyou Moun- 
tains near the north line of California. 



64 

Leaving the Southern Pacific Railway at Grants Pass, a fair wagon 
and automobile road runs as far as the Stephens Ranch on upper 
Williams Creek, a distance of 26 miles. From this point to the 
caves the trip must be made on horseback or afoot over a very good 
forest trail a distance of about 10 miles. 

Cave Mountain, the peak which contams these caves, rises to an 
elevation of about 6,000 feet and is of limestone fomiation. The 
main openings around which the national monument has been created 
are at an elevation of 4,000 feet, but the entire mountain side of 5 
or 6 miles shows caverns of various sizes, and in aU probability 
its interior throughout is honeycombed like the portion that has 
been explored. 

These caves are more of a series of galleries than of roomy caverns, 
though many beautiful rooms have been discovered, while miles of 
galleries have been visited; but there are thousands of passageways 
leadmg in all directions — partly closed by stalactites — that have never 
been opened, and with the distant and unexplored openings on the 
opposite side of the mountain the magnitude of the Oregon Caves 
can be said to be practically unknown. 

Many small streams are found at different elevations, and larger 
bodies of rmuimg water can be heard in pits bottomless so far as 
measured (by 300-foot line). Tliis runnmg v/ater probably accounts 
for currents of wmd that in some of the galleries blow so hard as to 
extinguish an open light at once. 

The lime deposits take many beautiful forms — massive pillars, 
dehcate stalactites of alabaster whiteness with the crystal drop of 
water carrying its minute deposit of lime, from which they are 
formed, and broad sheets resembling drapery with graceful curves 
and waves that were certainly made by varying currents of wind 
durmg fonnation. 

The Forest Service has rebuilt and improved the trails leading to 
the caves from each side of the divide, in order to protect the valuable 
forest surroimdmg and to make the caves more accessible to tourists. 

TONTO NATIONAL MONUMENT. 

The Tonto National Monument, created by proclamation dated 
December 19, 1907, is located in Gila County, Ariz. Situated only 
1 mile south of the ocean-to-ocean highway, 80 miles east of Phoenix, 
40 miles north of Globe, Ariz., and about 4 miles east of the Roosevelt 
Dam, this monument is one of the most easily accessible ruiiis of the 
vanished race of cliff dwellers. From the main road between Globe 
and Phoenix, Ariz., automobiles may be driven over a good branch 
road to within half a mile of the nearest of the groups of cliff dwellings. 

The southern group of dwellings is located in a cavern formed by 
the peculiar weathering of argillite rock, which forms a perpendic- 
ular or overhanging wall, with a steep talus slope below, so plenti- 
fully studded with cholla cactus as to suggest their having been 
planted there by the cUff dwellers as a defense against their enemies. 
Tliis natural cavern is about 125 feet across and the ledge upon 
which the dwellings are built is 35 feet wide at the widest point. 
From the outer edge of the footwall to the overhanging roof of the 
cavern the perpendicular distance is 30 or 40 feet. Tlie dwelling, 
evidently communal, contained originally about 15 chambers, each 



65 

from 12 to 16 feet square and 6 feet in height. Ten chambers are in 
a fair state of preservation, and most of these are two or three 
storied, depending upon whether or not the inhabitants lived in the 
space between the second artificial roof and the cavern roof above. 
The construction of the dwellings shows careful planning and no 
mean knowledge of the art of masonry. The walls are of flat rocks 
cemented together with a gravelly adobe. The ceilings are cleverly 
constructed of wooden poles with their ends deeply embedded in the 
side walls. A solid layer of fibers from the Saguaro or giant cactus 
rests transversely upon the poles, and upon them is spread about 4 

g I // ^ 

I ! # I 



^ CUrfDyveVinglf^i 

i 




V '^^^^Zz/7lZ?H'eZiz>i^J\r?2^^ 



I \ ^ i 

i •' I 

<^/ //////////////////////////////////W//////////////////////// /////////^ 

Tonto National Monument, unsun-eyed sec. 34, T. 4 N., R. 12 E., cSila and Salt River meridian, Ariz., 
containing 640 acres; created December 19, 1907. 

inches of adobe, forming the floor of the chamber above. Small 
openings or doors, generally about 2 by 4 feet, provided communi- 
cation between chambers on the same level, but in only one instance 
(noted in the northern group of dweUings) is there an opening in 
the ceiling of a chamber to allow egress to the chamber above. There 
are occasional small holes in the side walls of the inner chambers, 
apparently for the purpose of ventilation, lighting, or communication, 
but so-called ''arrow holes"' in the outer walls, through which the 
beleagured iniiabitants are popularly supposed to have shot arrows 
at storming parties of their enemies, have every appearance of being 



66 

simply apertures left by the removal of the roofing poles. Fragments 
of metates, or primitive stone utensils for grinding corn, and even 
corncobs, are to be found among the ruins. 

The northern group of dwellings includes two caverns. One con- 
tains about 12 rooms in a better state of preservation than those of 
the southern group, although badly vandalized. One large interior 
chamber is in a perfect state of preservation. The other cavern of 
this group contains eight single-storied chambers, poorly preserved. 

WALNUT CANYON NATIONAL MONUMENT. 

This national monument created by proclamation of November 30, 
1915, embraces 960 acres of land within the Coconico National Forest, 
about 8 miles southeast of the city of Flagstaff, Ariz. 




Walnut Canvon National Monument within the Coconino National Forest, Ariz., created November 30, 

1915. 

Within this area, and along both sides of Wahiut Canyon, there 
are situated about 30 prehistoric cliff dweUings of great scientific 
and popular interest. These cliff dweUings are readily accessible, 
since a transcontinental railroad passes through Flagstaff, and the 
highway known as the " Ocean- to-Ocean and Old Trails Highway" 
now passes within a short distance of Walnut Canyon. At present a 



67 

local officer of the Forest Service who resides at the Cliffs Ranger 
Station, immediately north of this area, acts as custodian of these 
ruins. The scenic features surrounding the cliff dwellings are also 
quite notable, since the trail from the pme-covered mesa passes 
down an arroyo fringed with locust. This trail follows around the 
benches of the canyon walls, as most of the ruins are below the can- 
yon rim. In places ladders have been constructed so that cliff 
dweUings otherwise inaccessible might be reached. The cliff houses 
themselves were buUt in under the outward sloping canyon walls. 
Apparently each must have been built for the accommodation of 
one large family, since the largest contains but 6 to 8 rooms. They 
were all constructed with selected stone and mortar, plastered on 
the inside, the construction consisting of large slabs set perpen- 
dicularly so as to form a continuous although irregular passage 
from the outside to the mterior. Openings were left so that the 
rooms on each side receive a current of air. To the south of the 
cliff dwellings in the center of Walnut Canyon is an isolated butte 
which appears to have been used as a fort, masonry walls having 
been built up where the slope was not naturally precipitous, ren- 
dering ascent impossible without the aid of long ladders. The ruins 
as a whole are in a fau*ly good state of preservation, and while many 
of the masonry walls were broken down by vandals and many relics 
have no doubt been removed, the remaining walls are so well pro- 
tected by the lunestone ridges that they will remain intact indefi- 
nitely. 

It is estimated that approxmiately 3,000 people visit these cliff 
dweUings each year. 

WHEELER NATIONAL MONUMENT. 

The Wheeler National Monument, named in honor of the late 
Capt. George Montague Wlieeler, United States Engineers (1842- 
1905) , in charge of geographical explorations west of the one hundredth 
meridian, 1869-1879, was created by proclamation of December 7, 
1908. It is located in the Rio Grancle National Forest, in Mineral 
County, Colo., on the east slope of the divide between the head of 
the West Fork of Bellows Creek on the south side of the range and 
the head of the South Fork of Saguache Creek on the north side of 
the range and about 1 mile southeast of Half Moon Pass, in sections 
17 and 20, to^^^lship 42 north, range 2 east, New Mexico principal 
meridian. 

The tract lies on the southern slope of the ridge which forms the 
crest of the Contmental Divide. It is traversed from north to south 
by numerous deep canyons with very precipitous sides, the inter- 
vening ridges bemg capped by pinnacle-Uke rocks, making it prac- 
ticaUy mipossible to cross the tract from east to west, even on foot. 
There are also many crevices cutting the ridges transversely, making 
an intricate network of ravines separated by broken, precipitous 
ledges and broken mesas. 

It is probable that the formation found here is the result of a 
succession of outpourings of lava and showers of volcanic ash which 
have left a series of nearly horizontal strata of varj^ing degrees of 
hardness. Numerous pebbles and breccia of a flint like rock are 
embedded in the softer lavas, which were probably gathered up by the 



68 



flowing lava mud from the original bedrock. The formation is for 
the most part scoriaceous tufa and trachyte, with some rhyolite. 
The effect of erosion on this formation has been to cut it into sharply 
defined forms of many kinds. The harder broken rocks embedded in 
the lavas have acted as veritable chisels, greatly accelerating erosive 
action and making the lines and angles more sharply defined than 
would be the case m ordinary weathering. This erosion is still going 
on at a remarkably rapid rate, making the place ver}'- interesting 
from the geological point of view. 




Wheeler National Monument, within theCochetopa and Rio Grande National Forests, Colo., T. 42 N., 
R. 2 E., New Mexico meridian; created December 7, 1908. 

The fantastic forms resulting from the rapid erosion make this 
spot one of exceptional beauty. The numerous winding canyons, 
broken ridges, pinnacles, and buttes form striking and varied scenes. 

From the most reliable data it is believed that the ill-fated expedi- 
tion of General John C. Fremont, in 1848, reached this immediate 
vicinity, when disaster came upon the party, compelling it to turn 
back. Skeletons of mules, bits of harness, and camp equipage are 
found here, lending force to the recorded data. 

In order to reach the monument it is necessary to use saddle 
horses from Wagon Wheel Gap or Creede, points on the Denver & 



69 

nio Grande Railroad. From these places the monument may he 
reached by two different routes; one by leaving the Rio Grande a 
short distance above Wagon Wheel Gap and following the old 
wagon road into Blue Creek Park, thence following the trail around 
to the monument by the way of the head of East Bellows Creek. By 
this route the distance is approxmiately 17 miles over a fairly good 
trail. The second route is to follow down the Rio Grande on the 
north side from Creede to about 1 mile below Wason, or 3 miles below 
Creede, thence taking the Forest Service trail, which is posted for the 
entire distance from where it leaves the river bottom below Wason 
to the monument. This is a good trail, and the distance is about 13 
miles. 

NATIONAL MONUMENTS ADMINISTERED BY THE WAR 

DEPARTMENT. 

BIG HOLE BATTLE FIELD MONUMENT. 

This moniunent, which includes 5 acres of land in Beaverhead 
County, Mont., about 55 miles southwest of Butte, is under the juris- 
diction of the War Department. The tract was reserved for military 
purposes by Executive order of June 23, 1910, for the preservation 
of a monmnent to commemorate the battle fought here on August 9, 
1877, between a small force of United States troops and a much 
larger number of Nez Perce Indians, which resulted in a complete 
rout of the Indians. 

The nearest settlement to the monument is the town of Gibbons, 
Beaverhead County, which is reached by stage via Wisdom from 
Divide, a distance of about 45 miles. Divide is a station on the 
Oregon Short Line, some 25 miles south of Butte, Mont. 

The battle in Big Hole Basin was one of the principal engagements 
in the Nez Perce campaign, which began in the summer of 1877 and 
lasted nearly four months. Some of the Nez Perces, led by Chief 
Joseph and other chiefs, refused to be bound by the terms of a treaty 
made with the Government a few years before, and to Gen. O. O. 
Howard was assigned the duty of placing the Indians on their reser- 
vation. Negotiations, which at first promised to be successful, were 
brought to a sudden end on June 13 by the massacre of about 20 
whites in revenge for an Indian killed the year before. The Nez 
Perces started to leave their home in Idaho for their hunting grounds 
m Judith Basin in eastern Montana, but their route lay too near 
Fort Missoula and the towns in the southwestern part of the Terri- 
tory. Early in August a party under Chief Joseph nad turned south 
to cross the Lo Lo Pass back into Idaho when they were overtaken 
by Col. John Gibbon in command of a small force consisting of 17 
officers, 132 men, and 34 civilians. Col. Gibbon attacked the Indians 
at daylight in Big Hole Basin by surprise and their camp fell into his 
hands in less than half an hour. During the fight, which continued 
aU day and long after dark, the Indians captured a howitzer and a 
pack mule loaded with ammunition. Later in the night the Nez 
Perces escaped, leaving 89 dead, wliile Col. Gibbon, who was slightly 
wounded, lost 29 men killed and 40 wounded. 

Turning south and east the Indians, now pursued by Gen. Howard, 
passed through Idaho and into the Yellowstone National Park. 



70 

They proceeded eastward across the park, emerging at Mi,ller Creek 
and turning north crossed the Yellowstone, and later the Missouri 
at Cow" Island. Being finally intercepted by Col. Miles in an engage- 
ment which occurred on October 5, 1877, near the north base of the 
Bear Paw Mountains and within 30 miles of the international bound- 
ary, most of the survivors surrendered. In the campaign between 
June and October, extending over a route of 1,500 mues or more in 
length, 15 engagements were fought, in which 127 whites were killed 
and 140 wounded. The total losses of the Indians are unknown, 
but 151 were kiUed, 88 wounded, and 489 were captured. The 
Indians lost more than one-half of their dead in the battle of the 
Big Hole and the whites nearly one-third of their dead and nearly 
one-fourth of their wounded in the same engagement. 

CABRILLO NATIONAL MONUMENT. 

The CabriUo National Monument on Point Loma, just north of the 
entrance of San Diego Bay, was created October 13, 1913, to com- 
memorate the discovery of California by Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, 
who first sighted land at this point when he entered the bay on Sep- 
tember 28, 1542. This tract of land, containing less than an acre 
(21,910 square feet), is located on the military reservation of Fort 
Rosecrans. Its dedication as a fitting site for a statue of CabriUo^ 
was recommended by the Order of Panama, an organization com- 
posed of representative citizens of southern California. 

Point Loma is readily reached from San Diego by boat and also by 
motor or other vehicles. 

1 Little is knovm of the history of Cabrillo, a Portuguese navigator in the service of Bpain, who was prob- 
ably born about the end of the fifteenth century, and who commanded the first expedition which explored 
the Pacific coast of America north of Mexico. This expedition, comprising two ships dispatched by the 
viceroy Mendoza, reached California almost exactly 50 years after the discovery of America by Columbus, 
and 3 "years after the landing of Hernando De Soto at Tampa, Fla. Cabrillo also discovered the Santa 
Barbara Islands and after continuing up the coast about as far as latitude 38° returned to San Miguel Island, 
where he died on January 3, 1543, and where be is said to have been buried. On the death of Cabrillo the 
command of the expedition fell to the chief pilot. Bartholomeo Ferrelo^ who again proceeded up the coast, 
discovering several prominent points and headlands. He reached his farthest north near the southern 
boundary of Oregon on March 10, 1543, when on account of lack of provisions and the condition of his vessels 
he was compelled to return. 



APPENDIX I. SOME IMPORTANT DATES IN THE HISTORY OF 
NATIONAL MONUMENTS. 

1526. Earliest inscription on Inscription Rock (El Morro). 

1540. Discovery of the Grand Canyon of Arizona by Don Garcia 
Lopez de Cardenas. 

1542. Discovery of California by Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo. 

1604. Discovery of Mount Desert Island by Samuel de Champlain 
(Sieur de Monts Monument). 

1661. Spanish inscriptions on- the Inscription House Ruin (Navajo 
National Monument). 

1774. Discovery of Mount Olympus by Juan Perez, who named it 
El Cerro de Santa Rosaha. 

1788. Mount Olympus named by Capt. John Meares, who first 
saw it July 4. 

1802. Battle of Alaska between the natives and the Russians under 
Baranoff (Sitka National Monument). 

1854. First ascent of Mount Olympus. 

1869. Exploration of the Grand Can von of the Colorado by Maj. 
J. W. Powell. 

1874. Discovery of Oregon Caves or Marble HaUs by Elija 
Davidson. 

1877. Battle of Bi^ Hole, Montana. 

1895. Discovery of Natural Bridges of Utah by Emery Knowles. 

1900. Discovery of Jewel Cave, S. Dak., by Albert and F. W. 
Michaud. 

1906. Passage of Monuments Act and establishment of first 
monuments. 

1908. Discovery of Ruins of Betata Kin by J. W. Wetherell and 
Prof. Byron S. Cumnungs (Navajo National Monument). 

1909. Discovery of Rainbow Natural Bridge, Utah, by William 
B. Douglass. 

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APPENDIX II. AN ACT FOR THE PRESERVATION OF AMERICAN 

ANTIQUITIES. 

(34 Stat., 225.) 

Be it enacted ly the Senate and House of Representatives of the 
.United States of America in Congress assembled, That any person 
who shall appropriate, excavate, injure, or destroy any historic or 
prehistoric ruin or monument, or any object of antiquity, situated on 
lands owned or controlled by the Government of the United States, 
without the permission of the Secretary of the department of the 
Government having jurisdiction over the lands on which said antiqui- 
ties are situated, shall, upon conviction, be fined in a sum of not more 
than $500 or be imprisoned for a period of not more than ninety 
days, or shall suffer both fuie and imprisonment, in the discretion 
of the court. 

Sec. 2. That the President of the United States is hereby author- 
ized, in his discretion, to declare by public proclamation historic land- 
marks, historic and prehistoric structures, and other objects of historic 
or scientific interest that are situated upon the lands o^med or con- 
trolled by the Government of the United States to be national monu- 
ments, and may reserve as a part thereof parcels of land, the limits of 
which in all cases shall be confined to the smallest area compatible 
with the proper care and management of the objects to be protected: 
Provided, That when such objects are situated upon a tract covered 
by a bona fide unperfected claim or held in private ownership, the 
tracts, or so much thereof as may be necessary for the proper care and 
management of the object, may be relinquished to the Government, 
and the Secretary of the Interior is hereby authorized to accept the 
relinquishment of such tracts in behalf of the Government of the 
United States. 

Sec. 3. That permits for the examination of ruins, the excavation 
of arch9?ological sites, and the gathering of objects of antiquity upon 
the lands under their respective jurisdictions may be granted by the 
Secretaries of the Interior, Agriculture, and War to institutions 
which they may deem properly qualified to conduct such examination, 
excavation, or gathering, subject to such miles and regulations as they 
may prescribe: Provided, That the examinations, excavations, and 
gathermgs are undertaken for the benefit of reputable museums, 
universities, colleges, or other recognized scientific or educational 
institutions, with a view to increasmg the knowledge of such objects, 
and that the gatherings shaU be made for permanent preservation in 
public museums. 

Sec. 4. That the Secretaries of the departments aforesaid shall 
make and publish from time to time uniform rules and regulations 
for the purpose of carrying out the provisions of this act. 

Approved, June 8, 1906. 

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APPENDIX III. AN ACT TO ESTABLISH A NATIONAL PARK 
SERVICE, AND FOR OTHER PURPOSES. 

(39 Stat., 535.) 

Be it enacted hy the Senate and House of Representatives of the United 
States of America in Congress assembled, That there is hereby created 
in the Department of the Interior a service to be called the National 
Park Service, which shall be under the charge of a director, who shall 
be appointed by the Secretary and who shall receive a salary of S4,500 
per annum. There shall also be appointed by the Secretary the fol- 
lowing assistants and other employees at the salaries designated: One 
assistant director, at $2,500 per annum; one chief clerk, at $2,000 per 
annum; one draftsman, at $1,800 per annum; one messenger, at $600 
per annum; and, in addition thereto, such other employees as the 
Secretary of the Interior shall deem necessary: Provided, That not 
more than $8,100 annually shall be expended ^or salaries of experts, 
assistants, and employees within the District of Columbia not herein 
specifically emunerated unless previously authorized by law. The 
service thus estabhshed shaU promote and regulate the use of the 
Federal areas known as national parks, monuments, and reservations 
hereinafter specified by such means and measures as conform to the 
fundamental purpose of the said parks, monuments, and reservations, 
which purpose is to conserve the scenery and the natural and historic 
objects and the wild life therein and to provide for the enjoyment of 
the same in such manner and by such means as wiU leave them unim- 
paired for the enjoyment of future generations. 

Sec. 2. That the director shall, under the direction of the vSecretary 
of the Interior, have the supervision, management, and control of the 
several national parks and national monuments which are now under 
the jurisdiction of the Department of the Interior, and of the Hot 
Springs Reservation in the vState of Arkansas, and of such other 
national parks and reservations of hke character as may be hereafter 
created by Congress: Provided, That in the supervision, management, 
and control of national monuments contiguous to national forests the 
Secretary of Agriculture may cooperate with said National Park 
Service to such extent as may be requested by the Secretary of the 
Interior. 

Sec. 3. That the Secretary of the Interior shall make and publish 
such rules and regulations as he may deem necessary or proper for 
the use and management of the parks, monuments, and reservations 
under the jm'isdiction of the National Park Service, and any viola- 
tions of any of the rules and regulations authorized by this act shall 
be punished as provided for in section fifty of the act entitled "An 
act to codify and amend the penal laws of the United States," ap- 
proved March fourth, nineteen hundred and nine, as amended by 
section six of the act of June twenty-fifth, nineteen hundred and ten 
(Thirty-sixth United States Statutes at Large, page eight hundred and 

(73) 



74 

fifty-seven). He may also, upon terms and conditions to be fixed 
by nim, sell or dispose of timber in those cases where in his judgment 
the cutting of such timber is required in order to control the attacks 
of insects or diseases or otherwise conserve the scenery or the natm'al 
or historic objects in any such park, monument, or reservation. He 
may also provide in his discretion for the destruction of such animals 
and of sucn plant life as may be detrimental to the use of any of said 

{)arks, monuments, or reservations. He may also grant privileges, 
eases, and permits for the use of land for the accommodation of 
visitors in the various parks, monuments, or other reservations herein 
provided for, but for periods not exceeding twenty vears; and no 
natural curiosities, wonders, or objects of interest shall be leased, 
rented, or granted to anyone on such terms as to interfere with free 
access to them by the public: Provided, however, That the Secretary 
of the Interior may, under such rules and regulations and on such 
terms as he may prescribe, grant the privilege to graze live stock 
within any national park, monimient, or reservation herein referred 
to when in his judgment such use is not detrimental to the primarv 
purpose for which such park, monument, or reservation was created, 
except that this provision shall not applv to the Yellowstone National 
Park. 

Sec. 4. That nothing in this act contained shall affect or modify 
the provisions of the act approved February fifteenth, nineteen 
hundred and one, entitled "An act relating to rights of way through 
certain parks, reservations, and other public lands." 
Approved, August 25, 1916. 



APPENDIX IV. LITERATURE. 

The following list of publications relating to the monuments is by 
no means exhaustive, but includes the more important publications 
on the principal reservations. The articles are mainly descriptive, 
but a few are technical, the object of the list being to include origi- 
nal sources of information as well as popular accounts. No attempt 
has been made to include all the titles m the voluminous literature 
on the Grand Canyon or the Cliff Dwellings. 

GENERAL. 

Bond, Frank, The Administration of National Monuments: Proc. Nat. Park Confer- 
ence, 1911, Dept. Int., pp. 80-101. 1912. [For sale by the Superintendent of 
Documents, Government Printing Office, Washington, D. C, for 15 cents.] 

statement of location, oharacteristio.'^, administration, and neods of tlie 28 monuments then estab- 
lished. 

CoNWENTZ, H., Beitrage zur Naturdenkmalpfiege, Band I-V. Berlin, 1906-1916. 
Reports of the Prussian Bureau for the Conservation of Natural Monuments. 

CoNWENTz, H., The Care of Natural Monuments with Special Reference to Great 
Britain and Germany, 12°, 185 pages, 10 figs. 1909. 

Brief account and summary of efforts in several countries to protect natural monuments. 

Curtis, Wm. Eleroy, Our National Parks and Reservations: Annals Acad. Pol. & 
Social Science, vol. 35, pp. 231-240, 1910; reprinted in Public Recreation Facili- 
ties. Phila. 1910. 

Contains brief descriptions of 15 national monuments (pp. 237-2iO). 

ScHMECKEBiER, L. F., Our National Parks: Nat. Geog. Mag., vol. 23, pp. 531-577, 
ill. June, 1912. 

Contains a list of the 28 monuments then established, a map showing their location, 4 figs, of the 
Devil Post Pile and .3 of the Petrified Forest (pp. 575-577). 

Yard, R. S., National Parks Portfolio. Dept. Interior, Nat. Parks Service. 1917. [For 
sale by the Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office, Washing- 
ton, D. C; price, 35 cents for 11 pamphlets loose in cloth cover; 55 ceuts bound in 

cloth. Ready about July 1, 1917.] 

A collection of photographs illustrating the parks and monuments. 

NATIONAL MONUMENTS. 

BANDELIER. 

Hewett, Edgar L., Antiquities of the Jemez Plateau, New Mexico: Bureau Am. 
Ethnology, Bull. 32, 55 pages, 16 pis., map. 1906. [For sale by Superintendent 
of Documents, Government Printing Office, Washington, D. C, for 25 cents.] 
Full account of the antiquities now included in the Bandelier National Monument. 

BIG HOLE BATTLE FIELD. 

Bancroft, H. H., Hist., Works of Hubert Howe Bancroft, vol. 31, Washington, 
Idaho, and Montana, 510 pages. 1890. 

Chittenden, H. M., The Yellowstone National Park, 8 ed., 1915. 

Chapter XV, " HostUe Indians in the Park, ' contains a brief summarvof the Nez Perce troublesof 
1877 (pp. 122-130). 

Gibbon, John, Col. 7th Infantry. U. S. A. [Report of Battle of Big Hole. Montana, 
Aug. 9, 1877]: Rept. Secretary War, 1877, vol. 1, pp. 68-72. [Out of print.] 

(75) 



76 

CABRILLO. 

Anon. Voyage of Cabrillo along the California roast in 1542: Calif. 111. Mag., vol. 1, 
pp. 100, 215. 1891. 

Anon. The Cabrillo Celebration at San Diego: Land of Sunshine, vol. 1. pp. 76-77, 
99, 4 figs. Sept., 1894. 

Contains an aceoui;t of the celebration, on Sept. 27-29, 1894, of the three hundred and fifty-second 
anniversary of the discovery of California, with two illustrations of the celebration of 1892. 

CAPULIN MOUNTAIN. 

Lee, Willis T., Extinct Volcanoes of Northeast New Mexico: Am. Forestry, vol. 18, 
pp. 357-365, 7 figs. June, 1912. 

Brief description of Capulin Mountain, with 3 figs., pp. 300-362. 

COLORADO. 

Rockwell, Robert B., An Annotated List of the Birds of Mesa County, Colorado: 
Condor, vol. 10, pp. 152-180, 11 figs., including 2 maps. July, 1908. 

Contains notes on 1.39 species of birds found in the county, including those which occur in the 
monument. 

devil postpile. 

Anon., Devil Postpile National Monument, California: Sierra Club Bull., vol. 8, pp. 
226-227, 2 pis., map, Jan. 1912. 

Full text of the Proclamation and 2 photographs by W. L. Huber. 

Holder, Charles Frederick. Famous Basaltic Columns: Scientific Am., vol. 84, 
p. 68, 2 figs., Feb. 2, 1901. 

Huber, W. L. [Four photographs by W. L. Huber of the Devil Post Pile, in L. F. 
Schmeckebier's "Our National Parks"]: Nat. Geog. Mag., vol. 23, pp. 568-571, 
June 1912. 

Le Conte, Joseph N., The Devil Postpile: Sierra Club Bull., vol. 8, pp. 170-173, 
2 pis., Jan. 1912. 

devils tower. 

Moran, Thomas, A Journey to the Devils Tower in Wyoming: Century, n. s., voL 
25, pp. 450-454, Jan. 1894. 

EL MORRO. 

Lummis, Charles F., Some Strange Comers of our Country, 1892. 

Chapter XIII on The Stone Autograph-Album contains reproductions of a number of the more 
important names on Inscription Rock, which is described as "the most precious clill, historically, 
possessed by any nation on earth, and, I am ashamed to say, the most utterly uncared-for" (pp. 163- 

182). 

GRAND CANYON. 

Daniels. Mark, The Grand Canyon of the Colorado: Am. Forestrv, vol. 22, pp. 202- 
208, 10 figs., Apr. 1916. 

Contains an illustration of the monument erected to Maj. John Wesley Powell, who made the first 
trip down the river through the canyon (p. 205). 

Darton, N. H., a Reconnaissance of parts of northwestern New Mexico and north- 
ern Arizona: U. S. Geol. Survey, Bull. 435, 88 pages, 17 plates, 1910. 

Davis, W. M., Excursion to the Grand Canyon: Bull. Mus. Comp. Zool. Harvard 
Coll., Geol. ser., vol. 5, No. 4, pp. 107-201, 1901. 

Dellenbaugh, Frederick S., The Romance of the Colorado River, 399 pages, many 
illustrations, 1902. 

An account of the explorations of the river, with special reference to the voyages of Powell; Mr. 
Dellenbaugh was a member of the second Powell expedition. 

Dutton, Capt. Clarence E., Tertiary History of the Grand Caiion District, U. S. 
Geol. Surv., Men. 2, 264 pages, ill. and atlas, 1882. [For sale by the Superintendent 
of Documents, Government Printing Office, Washington, D. C, for $10.] 

Grey, Zane, Roping Lions in the Grand Canyon: Field and Stream, vol. 13, pp. 
739-749, Jan. 1909; vol. 14, pp. 336-342, Aug. 1909. 



77 

Holmes, Burton, Travelogues, vol. 6, The Yellowstone National Park; The Grand 
Canyon of the Arizona; Moki Land, 336 pages, ill., 1908. 

James, George Wharton, In and Around the Grand Canvon, 346 pages, 23 plates, 
707 figs. 

James, George Wharton, The Grand Canyon of Arizona — How to See It: 265 pages, 
map, 98 figs., 1910. 
A popular guide book. 

KoLB, Ellsworth, and Emery, Experiences in the Grand Canyon: Nat. Geog. Mag., 
vol. 26, pp. 99-184, many ills., Aug. 1914. 

Contaiiis accounts of (1) a journey to Cataract Creek. (2) to the Canyon of the Little Colorado, and 
(3) "Shootiag the Rapids of the Colorado'' — a descent of the river from Green River City, Wyo., to 
its mouth. Leaving Green River City on Sept. 8, 1911, Bright Angel Creek was reached Nov. 16 — 
a distance of 850 miles in 70 days. On Dec. 19 a start was again made and the party reached Needles, 
Calif., Jan. 18, after passing through 365 rapids during the 101 days spent on the river. 

Merriam, C. Hart, Grand Canon of the Colorado, between the Kaibab and Cocanini 
Plateaus: N. Am. Fauna, No. 3, U. S. Dept. Agr., pp. 35-41, 1889. 

Contains lists of 21 species of mammals and 57 species of birds observed during a 6-day trip to the 
canyon, Sept. 10-15, 1889. 

Mum, John, Crand Caiion of the Colorado: Century, vol. 65, pp. 107-116, Nov. 1902. 

Noble, L. F., The Shinumo quadrangle, Grand Canvon district, Arizona: U. S. 
Geol. Surv., Bull. 549, 100 pp., 18 pis., 1914. 

Powell, J. W., Scribner's, vol. 9, pp. 293, 523; vol. 10, p. 659. 

Powell, J. W., Exploration of the Colorado River of the West, 1869-1872: Smith- 
sonian Inst., 4°, pp. 291, II., 1875. [Out of Print.] 

Part I, " History of the Exploration of the Canons of the Colorado, " contains a detailed itinerary of 
the first trip through the canon (pp. 1-132). 

Steele, David M., Going Abroad Overland: 8 vo., pp. 197, 16 plates, 2 maps, N. Y., 
1917. Putnams. 

ToRREY, Bradford, A Bird -Gazer at the Canon: In Field Davs in California, pp. 
204-231, 1913. 

Popular aecoimt of birds observed in December. 

Walcott, CD., Pre-Cambrian igneous rocks of the Unkar terrane, Grand Canyon of 
the Colorado, Arizona: U. S. Geol. Surv., 14th Ann. Kept., pt. 2, pp. 497-524, pis. 
60-65, 1894. [For sale by the Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing 
Oflice, Washington, D. C, for $2.10. 

WiNSHiP, George Parker, Finding the Colorado River: Land of Sunsliine, vol. 12, 
pp. 269-280, 5 figs., April 1900. 

Popular accoimt of the discovery of the Canyon by Don Garcia Lopez de Cardeiias in 1540. 

Yard, R. S., National Parks Portfolio, Grand Canyon Pamphlet. Dept. Int. National 
Parks Service, 1916. 2d ed. 1917. [For sale by Superintendent of Documents, 
Government Printing Office, Washington, D. C; price, 35 cents for 11 pamphlets 
loose in cloth cover; 55 cents for book bound in cloth. Ready about July 1, 1917.] 

LEWLS AND CLARK CAVERN. 

Chestnut, V. K., The Lewis & Clark Cavern National ilonument in Montana, Sci- 
ence, n. s., vol. 29, p. 599, Apr. 9, 1909. 

Brief abstract of a paper presented before the Biological Society of Waslungton. 

MONTEZUMA CASTLE. 

LuMMis, Charles F., Some Strange Corners of Our Country, 1892. 
Chapter XI, Montezuma's Castle, pp. 13i)-Ul, 2 plates. 

Mearns, Edgar A., Ancient Dwellings of the Rio Verde Valley: Pop. Sci. Mo., 
XXXVII, pp. 745-763, 12 figs, and map, Oct., 1890. 

Contains a description with photograph and several plans of Montezuma's Castle (pp. 750-757), 
and a general account of other ruins in the vicinity of Camp Verde. 

Mindeleff, Cosmos, Aboriginal Remains in Verde Vallev, Arizona: 13th Ann. Rept. 
Bureau Ethnology for 1891-92, pp. 179-261, pis. X-L,"'text figs. [For sale by Su- 
, perintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office, Washington, D^ C, for 
ll.lO.j 



78 

MOUNT OLYMPUS. 

Anon., New Olympic National Park: Colliers, vol. 43, p. 12, April 1909. 

Burns, Findley: The Olympic National Forest: Its Resources and their Management: 
U. S. Dept. Agriculture, Forest Service, Bull. 89, pp. 20, 2 pis., and map. [For sale 
by Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office, Washington, D. C, 
for 10 cents.] 

Contains a description of the forests within and adjoining the National Monument. 

DoDWELL, Arthur, and Rixon, T. F., Olympic Forest Reser\^e, Washington: U. S. 
Geol. Sur\-ey, 21st Ann. Rept., pt. 5, pp. 151-208, pis. LII-LXX, 1899-1900. [For 
sale by the Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office, Washing- 
ton, D.C., for $3.85.] 

Detailed account of the forests based on examinations made in 1888 and 1889. 

FiGGiNS, J. D., The New Olympic National Park: Recreation, vol. 30, pp. 172-175, 

193, Oct. 1909. 
Henderson, L. F., The Flora of the Olympics: Zoe, Vol. II, pp. 253-295, October 

1891. 

General account with a list of nearly 500 species. 

Merriam, C. Hart, Cervus roosevelti, a new elk from the Olympics: Proc. Biol. Soc. 
Washington, vol. 11, pp. 271-275, Dec. 17, 1897. 

Original description of the Olympieelk, based on a specimen from Mount Elaine, on the ridge between 
the heads of the Hoh, Elwali, and Soleduc rivers, near Mount Olympus. 

MoRGENROTH, Chris., Game in Western Forest Reser\^es [Mount Olympus National 
Forest, Wash.]: Sportsmen's Review, vol. 38, p. 619, Dec. 24, 1910. 
Contains a table showing approximate number of elk on the various watersheds. 

Parsons, Marion Randall, Through the Olympics with the Mountaineers: Sierra 
Club Bull., vol. 9, pp. 149-158, pis. LIX-LXIV and map, January 1914. 

Account of an outing in August 1913, by the Seattle Mountaineers and members of Appalachian, 
Mazama, and Sierra Clubs from Port Angeles to Lake Queniult and Moclips, including an ascent of 
Mount Olympus. 

Smith, A. A., and others, The Olympics: Steel Points, Vol. I, no. 4, pp. 141-200, 
ill. July, 1907 (a 12 mo. quarterly published by W. G. Steel, Portland, Oreg.). 
Contains "The Olympics," by A. A. Smith; "Ascent of Mount Olyrnpus," by B. J. Bretherton; 
"Namesin the Olympic Region," anonymous; "First Ascent of Mount Olympus," by G. H. HinesJ 
and " Flora of the Olympics," by L. F. Henderson (reprint of paper mentioned above.) 

MUIR woods. 

Anon., A Noble Gift: Arboriculture, March 1908, pp. 37-38. 

Anon., Muir Woods on Mount Tamalpais, Marin Co., California: Pioneer Western 

Lumberman, Oct. 15, 1913, p. 19. 
Anon., Redwood Canvon, deeded to United States: Forestry and Irrigation, vol. 14, 

pp. 97-98, 2 figs., February 1908. 
Anon Valuable Additions to National Forest Reserves in California: Great West, 

vol. '7, pp. 10-11, Feb. 1, 1908. 
Parsons, E. T. William Kent's Gift: Sierra Club Bull., vol. 6, pp. 285-288, 4 pis., 
June 1908. 

Contains an appreciation of the redwoods by the donor, and his correspondence with the President 
and Secretary of the Interior explaining the selection of the name Muir Woods instead of the designation 
Kent Monument, suggested by the President. 

Robinson, C. M., Muir Woods, a National Park: Charities and Commons, vol. 20, 
pp. 180-183, May 2, 1908. 

mukuntuweap. 

DuTTON, Capt. Clarence E., Tertiary History of the Grand Caiion District: U. S. 
Geol. Survey, Mon. II, 264 pages, 42 plates, and atlas, 1SS2. [For sale by Superin- 
tendent of Documents, Government Printing Office, Washington, D. C. $10.] 

The section on " The Temples and Towers of the Virgin" contains a picturesque description of the 
Mukuntuweap or Little Zion Valley (pp. 57-60). 

Waddell, Albert Gill, A Visit to Little Zion Canyon, Utah's Scenic Wonder: Am. 
Motorist, vol. 8, pp. 1-11, 5 figs., Aug., 1916. 



79 

NATURAL BRIDGES. 

CuMMiNGS, Byron S., The Great Natural Bridges of Utah: Nat. Geog. Mag., vol. 
21, pp. 157-167, 7 ill., Feb., 1910. 

Descriptions of the Edwin, Augusta, Caroline, and Rainbow or Nonnezoshi, and Pritchett Valley 
bridges. 

Dyar, W. W., The rdossal Bridges of Utah: Century Mag., vol. 68, pp. 505-511, Aug., 
1904; abstract in Nat. Geog. Mag., vol. 15, pp. 367-369, 2 figs., Sept., 1904. 

Holmes, Edwin F.. The Great Natural Bridges of Utah: Nat. Geog. Mag., vol. 18, pp. 
199-204, 3 figs., Mar., 1907. 



Fewkes, Jesse Walter, Preliminary Report on a Visit to the Navajo National Monu- 
ment, Arizona: Bu. Am. Ethnology, Smithsonian Institution, Bull. 50, 35 pages, 
22 plates, 1911. 

Includes routes to the monument, accouiits of the major and minor antiquities, summary, conclu- 
sions, and recommendations. 

GiLMAN, M. French, Birds of the Navajo Reservation in New Mexico: Condor, vol. 10, 
pp. 146-152, July, 1908. 

Contains brief notes on 108 species of birds on the reservation in New Me.xico and Arizona, including 
those found in the neighborhood of the monument. 

OREGON caves. 

Watson, C. B., Prehistoric Siskiyou Island and Marble Halls of Oregon, 147 pages, 
Jan. 4, 1909. 

Chap. XV, The Marble Halls of Oregon, contains an account of a four days' visit to the caves made in 
Aug., 1907, by Joaquin Miller, Jefferson Myers, and C. B. Watson (pp. 132-141). 

WiNCHELL, A. N., Petrology and Mineral Resources of Jackson and Josephine Coun- 
ties, Oregon: Oregon Bureau Mines and Geol., Min. Resources of Oregon, vol. 1, No. 
5, 265 pages, Aug., 1914. 

In the accoimt of the Waldo District, Limestone and Slate, will be found a brief description of the 
caves with a diagram and photograph (pp. 243-244, fig. 30, PI. XI). 

PAPAGO SAGUARO. 

KuNZE, Richard E., The Desert Flora of Phoenix, Arizona: Bull. Torrey Bot. Club, 
vol. 30, pp. 302-307, May, 1903. 

Contains a brief account of 8 species of cactus and of other species characteristic of the flora of the 
Salt River Valley between Phoenix and Tempe in winter. 

PETRIFIED FOREST. 

Knowlton, F. H., The Fossil Forests of Arizona: Am. Forestry, vol. 19, pp. 207-218, 
8 pis., Apr. 1913. 

KuNz, George F., fSilicified Wood from Arizona]: Journ. N. Y. Microscop. Soc, 
Vol. I, p. 198, 1885. 

KuNz, George F., Agatized and Jasperized Wood of Arizona: Pop. Sci. Mo., Vol. 27, 
pp. 362-367, 1886. 

KuNz, George F., Jasperized and Agatized Woods from Arizona: Trans. N. Y. Acad 
Sci., Vol. 6, pp. 165-166, 1887. 

Merrill, George P., The Petrified Forest, 23 pp., 7 pis., Adamana, Ariz. 

Merrill, George P., The "Fossil Forest'' of Arizona: Am. Museum Journ.. vol. 13, 
pp. 311-316, 8 figs., Nov. 1913; reprinted in Scientific Am. Suppl., vol. 77, pp. 
184-185, 7 figs., Mar. 21, 1914. 

Miller, S. A., The Petrified Forest of Arizona; Around World, vol. 1, pp. 183-184, 
Sept. 1894. 

Lacey, John F., The Petrified Forest National Park of Arizona: Shields Mag., vol. 1, 
pp. 156-159, 4 figs., July, 1905. 

Writing a year before the passage of the Monuments Act Mr. I.acey says: "I have tried for six years 
to secure the enactment of a law creating a national park to include and preserve the wonderful Pertified 
Forest of Arizona. The bill which I drafted passed the House of Representatives in the o6th, 57th, and 
58th Congresses, but failed to be acted on in the t'enate." (p. 157.) 



80 

Ward, Lester F., Report on the Petrified Forest of Arizona: Dept. Interior, 23 pp., 
1900; reprinted Ann. Rept. Smithsonian Inst, for 1899, pp. 289-307, 3 plates, 1901. 
[For sale by Superintendent of Documents, Government Printins: Office, Washinsr- 
ton, D. C, 95 cents.] 

Contains the memorial to Congress passed by tlie legislature of Arizona in 189.5, recommending the 
establishment of the Petrified Forest National Park. 

PINNACLES. 

Mailliard, J. & J. W., Birds Recorded at Paicines, San Benito County, Cal.: Condor, 
vol. 3, pp. 120-127, Sept. 1901; vol. 4, p. 46, Mar. 1902. 

Contains brief notes on 171 species observed in the valley a few miles north of the monument. Al- 
though the list was not made in the reservation, it affords some idea of the birds which may be found 
in this area. 

RAINBOW BRIDGE. 

CuMMiNGS, Byron S., The Great Natural Bridges of Utah: Nat. Geog. Mag., vol 21 
pp. 157-167, ill., Feb. 1910. 

Contains a description and 2 illustrations of the Rainbow or Nonnezo.shi (the stone arch), the greatest 
natural bridge known (pp. 162, 163, 165). 

PoGUE, Joseph E., The Great Rainbow Natural Bridge of Southern Utah: Nat. 
Geog. Mag., vol. 22, pp. 1048-1056, 6 figs., Nov. 1911. 

Description of the bridge, account of its discovery August 14, 1909, and its dimensions in comparison 
with those of other bridges m Utah, the Natural Bridge in Virginia, and the Pont d' Arc in France. 

SIEUR DE MONTS. 

Anon., First National Park East of Mississippi River: Nat. Geog. Mag., vol. 29, pp. 
622-626, June, 1916. 

Five illustrations with brief descriptive text. 

Dorr, George B., The Sieur de Monts National Monument: Dept. Int. Cir., 4 pp., 
6 figs., and map, 1916. 

Brief statement regarding the new reservation. 

Dorr, George B., Forbush, E. II., and Fernald, M. L., The Unique Island of 
Mount Desert: Nat. Geog. Mag., vol. 26, pp. 75-89, 8 figs., July, 1914. 
Brief account of the history, birds, and flora of the island and the proposed reservation. 

Eliot, Charles W., The Need of Conserving the Beauty and Freedom of Nature: 
Nat. Geog. Mag., vol. 26, pp. 67-73, 3 figs., July, 1914. 
The plan for a national monument at Mount Desert, p. 73. 

Eliot, Charles W., and others, Sieur de Monts National Monument — Addresses 
upon its opening Aug. 22, 1916: Sieur de Monts Pubs. II, 22 pp., 1916. 

Eno, Henry Lane, The Sieur de Monts National Monument as a Bird Sanctuary: 
Sieur de Monts Pubs. Ill, 17 pp. [J 917.] 



Hough, Walter, Antiquities of the Upper Gila and Salt River Valleys in Arizona 
and New Mexico: Bureau Am. Ethnology, Bull. 35, 96 pp., 10 pis., 51 figs, map. 
1907. 

Ruins on upper Salt River, pp. 79-S2. 

TUMACACORI. 

Bancroft, H. H., Works of Hubert Howe Bancroft, vol. 17, Hist. Arizona and New 
Mexico, p. 385, 1889. 

Brief history of the mission down to 1824. 

wheeler national monument. 

Anon., The ^^^leeler National Monument: Nat. Geog. Mag., vol. 20, pp. 837-840, 
4 illus., Sept. 1909. 

Brief description and 4 views of the rock formations in the monument. 



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